887 Stockton Street
AWARD: Golden Spoon
Chef Howard Kirk calls his place "a peasant kitchen," but the majestic, hand-made food draws the crème de les foodies. Small plates and small plain space (seats 20-plus) offer very big flavors in bread, pasta, pastrami, chorizo and deviled ham. Everything is made in-house and seasoned with a world of spices. Reservations are a must.