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Who's Hot In Miami
At Il Tartufo, another Golden Spoon winner in Lauderdale, partnership disputes led Rino Balzano to resign as chef; he's now behind the burners at Cupido Cafe, in Boca Raton's Royal Palm Plaza.
With some of Fort Lauderdale's best restaurants in a state of flux, it seemed appropriate to look to the south and check out some of Greater Miami's up-and-comers. Here are some of the winners in and around the state's largest city:
al Carbon
305/865-7511
Sheraton Bal Harbour Resort
97011 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour
This is a stunning example of the mini-trend of independent hotel restaurant operations, with a classy setting alongside a sensational waterfall pool and an Argentinian menu with Mediterranean overtones. I like the gaucho-size steaks and can always be tempted by the triple loin lamb chops. Dinner entrees range from $18 to $29 and are served nightly.
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Biz Bistro
305/931-8448
Aventura Mall
19575 Biscayne Blvd., Aventura
Welcome to Manhattan South, replete with New York owners and New York chefs led by top toque Mark Poidevin from Le Cirque and Tavern on the Green. His menu is more Fun City traditional than South Florida tropical, so start with grilled portobello on arugula with shaved parmigiana and stay with the grill for salmon saluted with sweet pepper coulis. Lunch and dinner, with entrees $10 to $25, are served daily.
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Crystal Cafe
305/673-8266
726 Arthur Godfrey Road
Miami Beach
Superb chef-owner Klime Kovaceski is far removed from the bustle of South Beach and sometimes overshadowed in hype by the neighboring Forge. But he has a real winner at Crystal Cafe, where he brilliantly executes an expanded continental menu with great flair and sense of artistry His knockout entrees include Wienerschnitzel, seafood risotto, rack of lamb and incredible osso buco, arguably the best in Florida if not the South. Dinner, with entrees $9.95 to $19.95, is served Tuesday through Saturday.
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La Taverna Espa-ola
305/919-9828 17144 West Dixie Highway
North Miami Beach
Start your escape to this gem with a tour of the landmark 12th century Spanish Monastery two blocks away before settling into chef-owner Ernesto Arduz's terrific tapas treats - 24 on the regular menu and a half dozen additional inspirations of the day. After those dramatic preludes, I like red snapper in green sauce, trout with Serrano ham, or sherry-sauteed veal kidneys. For dessert, what else but the Barcelona grand climax, crema Catalan? Lunch is served Monday through Friday and dinner, with entrees $9 to $13, Monday through Saturday.
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Mark's in the Grove
305/857-5007
4 Grove Isle Drive
Coconut Grove
Super chef Mark Militello now has a triumphant triumvirate, capping off the trail-blazing successes of Mark's Place in North Miami (a Golden Spoon winner) and Mark's Las Olas in Fort Lauderdale with this waterfront wonder overlooking the bay. The place is perfect for seafood, starting with wine-steamed Whitewater clams zapped with garlic and tasso or squid grilled and christened with a sorrel-flecked vinaigrette. Entrees include crispified duckling flattered with white bean flan. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, with entrees $20 to $35, are served daily.
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Mezzanotte in the Grove
305/448-7677
Mayfair Center
3390 Mary St., Coconut Grove
This is the most recent spinoff of the raucous South Beach phenom, where late-night dinner patrons took to dancing on the tables. Mezzanotte is built around quality northern Italian food expertly prepared - including many farinaceous features, fresh snapper, swordfish or top-flight veal - and a carefully selected list of wines. Lunch (no dancing!) and dinner, with entrees $12 to $24, are served daily.
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Porcao
305/373-2777
Four Ambassadors Hotel
801 S. Bayshore Drive, Miami
This first Florida offshoot of a successful 12-unit Brazilian operation features a wood grill rotisserie in a display kitchen. I like the meats off the spit and the wide selection on the bounteous buffet with native specialties hot and cold. I also like the indoor-outdoor setting with panoramas of the bay. Lunch and dinner, with entrees $12 to $20, are served daily.
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Tuna's Waterfront Grille
305/945-2567
17201 Biscayne Blvd. North Miami Beach
Relax dockside while starting with hearty chowders and getting serious with shrimp, scallops, cobia, wahoo - broiled, blackened, fried, grilled or tossed into their version of bouillabaisse. In addition to seafood, there are top sirloin steaks and one-pound Delmonicos. Lunch and dinner, with entrees $10 to $22, are served daily.
