Robert W. Tolf | 10/1/2004

SOUTHEAST
Boca Raton
Ristorante Sapori
301 Via de Palmas
561/367-9779
The name means "tastes," and there are plenty of those in this felicitously served retreat of chef-owner Marco Pindo and wife, Mara. Everything is made to order, and the fresh fish is fabulous. Lunch, $7 to $11, and dinner, $17 to $24.

SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY
Tampa
La Teresita Restaurant
3248 W. Columbus Ave.
813/879-9704
A traditional budget stretcher, with all the old reliables -- ropa viejas, roast pork, rice and black beans everywhere in an authentic setting, strictly neighborhood with bilingual staff. Lunch and dinner, $5 to $14.50.

CENTRAL
Orlando
Linda's La Cantina
4721 E. Colonial Drive
407/894-4491
In the shadow of all the big beefers, the Palm, Morton's and Ruth's Chris, the Seng family has been packing them in since 1947, cutting and cooking quality steaks, pegged at pocketbook-pleasing prices, and serving great spaghetti. Dinner, $10 to $30.

NORTHEAST
Jacksonville Beach
First Street Grille
807 N. First St.
904/246-6555
Order whatever the chef recommends as special of the day or night and enjoy the beachfront setting. Lunch, $5 to $10, and dinner, $8 to $20.

NORTHWEST
Pensacola
The Fish House
600 S. Barracks St. (Suite 108)
850/470-0003
Executive chef Jim Shirley uses Southern accents with great skill and spirit, traveling far afield to graze and glean, selecting wines and absorbing culinary ideas to supplement his fresh fish and original grits A Ya Ya. Shirley's adjacent Atlas Oyster House shares its scenic views of the harbor. Lunch, $7 to $11, and dinner, $14 to $22.

Tags: Around Florida