Action at Jackson's

Robert W. Tolf | 9/1/2006

Jackson's
400 S. Palafox St., Pensacola
jacksonsrestaurant.com
850/469-9898

Jackson's not only survived the storms but has thrived.

Barry Phillips (left) and Irv Miller

Florida's Mango Gang is not confined to the Gold Coast, although that's where it has the greatest name and fame for Floribbean fare. There are outlying fringes all over the state, notably in northwest Florida in the unique village of Seaside, where Bud & Alley's blazed all kinds of culinary breakthroughs. It's where Irv Miller, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, settled in for almost six years of hands-on exposure to all the exciting flavors of New Florida cooking. He also developed skills in the catering business and worked a bit in the corporate world as developer of new culinary concepts. In 1999, he joined with Barry Phillips and Walter Steigleman to open a restaurant in the heart of downtown Pensacola, Jackson's, planning to make it a cornerstone of an ambitious revitalization program for the city.

The town and its boosters are still working on the various projects -- they had to survive the Big Winds, which did so much damage to dreams and hopes. But Miller and crew persevered and perfected their New Florida menu. Reflecting seasonal shifts that mean such stunning starters as Cedar Key little neck clams and blue-gold mussels Creole steamed in a pot with fresh herbs, shallots, garlic and Pinot Grigio Creole sauce served with garlic bread; three-cheese (cheddar, fontina and Gorgonzola) macaroni gratin with lump crab fondue served with toast points; thin slices of applewood-smoked duck breast with baby corn, bok choy, cucumber and cabbage salad with Thai peanut drizzle; and heart of romaine salad with roasted Roma tomatoes, grilled portobellos, purple onions and creamy blue cheese ($8 to $15).

The main dishes range from $28 for a basil-roasted, garlic-rubbed chicken breast with creamed corn casserole, grilled asparagus and sweet red pepper butter and $33 for a 14-ounce aged New York Strip to $37 for grilled Kobe beef with a Southern-style crab dressing and $39 for 18 ounces of aged Cowboy Ribeye with garlic confit.

The sides are special and include paella, fried okra and watermelon feta salsa. Entree toppings, priced from $3 to $11, are in the same league and include grilled shrimp, blue cheese crumbles, jumbo lump crab, seared foie gras and white truffle oil.

Tags: Dining & Travel, Northwest