Florida Trend | Florida's Business Authority

Beefing Up

The sophisticated Ulysses' was started by the same team that brought us the Golden Spoon-winning Cafè Margaux.

Ulysses' Prime Steakhouse
234 Brevard Ave., Cocoa
321 639-3922 | ulyssesprimesteakhouse.com

Does Florida really need another steakhouse? Are we not oversupplied with beef, beef, beef? Morton's, Palm, Ruth's Chris and Shula's already cover the state with a total of 28 top-quality outlets, and then there are the ethnics, led by the Argentinians and Japanese and such outstanding independents as Del Frisco's in Orlando, Marie Livingston's in Tallahassee and the legendary Bern's in Tampa.

Is there room for another? Yes. Definitely. If it's put together by the same Golden Spoon-winning team responsible for Cocoa's Café Margaux, Alex and Pam Litras. A couple of months ago, they opened their own outstanding answer to the question, adding to their sophisticated offerings Ulysses' Prime Steakhouse, as classic in achievement as the name.

The menu is a real knockout. The sole seafood appetizer selections, $9 to $15, include Nantucket Sound diver scallops served on the half shell with Kalamata relish and the jumbo white shrimp flattered with fire-roasted tomato cocktail sauce. From the main course menu, giant cold water lobster tails from Australia and South Africa are served with roasted garlic Parmesan risotto ($36 to $56). An outstanding lobster bisque is brewed with the shells, and that's handsomely highlighted by heavy cream splashed with Amontillado.

All other entrees are from the fields and plains with a trio of house specialty prime filet mignons topping the tariffs, starting at $36 for 10 ounces of the most tender cut of beef, cut only from the center. A 22-ounce Chateaubriand filet, which the menu advises is broiled with the grain horizontally for a crustier cut, is $72 and serves two.
Other beef-abilities are 18 ounces of prime ribeye for $36, a 14-ounce center-cut strip loin for $39, which is boneless, 24 ounces of bone-in ribeye for $43, and 24 ounces of porterhouse for $48.

Bone-in ribeye steak served with patates psites -- Greek roasted potatoes with olive oil, lemon juice and oregano -- whole roasted garlic head and asparagus with hollandaise.

Then there are the offerings cut from all natural, "source-verified" and true bloodline Wagyu cattle raised in the U.S. using the traditional Japanese methods for Kobe beef. A pound of that ribeye is $56, and three ribs braised in a rosé roasted vegetable ragout and served with that garlic Parmesan risotto is a bargain $35. More of that special risotto is served with their splendid version of veal osso bucco, $38. Least expensive of the 15 entrees is the $24 12-ounce serving of free-range chicken breast cooked in white wine bristling with cherry tomatoes, chippolini onions and goat cheese.

It's best to start with some of the traditional Greek Avgolemono soup made with egg and lots of lemon. To finish, order traditional baklava, a grand climax made with macadamians and Mount Rainer fireweed honey with a tangerine glaze.

As for the proper wines, you do not have to be traditional and order a Greek retsina. Ulysses, and its parent Café Margaux, have a terrific selection, one of the best in the state, and its own website for ordering within the state -- the classified chateaux of Bordeau are of special interest.