251 Sunrise Avenue
AWARD: Golden Spoon
The setting is sleek while fish go wild: Swordfish with root vegetable and apricots or yellowfin with crispy potatoes, olives and peppadews. Get a half order so you can go crazy with chef Aaron Black fore and aft. Beyond a 10-oyster raw bar, he has crab poutine and "seacuterie" of cured escolar, scallop mortadella and salmon pastrami. Stay for carrot cake and bourbon pineapple.