90 9th Ave.
AWARD: Best New
Another tour deep into Italy with Fabrizio and Ingrid Aielli (nee Sea Salt, Dorona, et al.) exploring its glorious variety. Choose pastas dry, fresh and stuffed from agnolotti to torchioni and sauces from amatriciana to a bianca of sausage, leek and mascarpone. Pizzas no easier: A dozen red and white topped with all manner of salumi, plus butternut squash and kale. Grappa, the namesake brandy, is in 80 or more varieties.