29 S. Blvd of the Presidents, 8764 E. State Road 70
Sarasota, Lakewood Ranch
AWARD: Best New
The old Italian clam bar stands out among raw bars. Oysters have their place, but clams can be so much more. At Speaks, they do raw, steamed, baked, fried, chowdered, piled on linguine and slipped into cioppino. And they lead on to grand old red-sauce Italian eating from eggplant Napoleon, arancini and meatballs with no-nonsense sauces, sweet, medium or hot. More seafood, too. Happy plates are here again.