October 17, 2019

Dining

Florida's Deli Revival

A new generation of delis is in full swing in Florida

Chris Sherman | 9/25/2019

I still hear laments around the state: “I miss Ronnie’s” in Orlando, or “I wish Wolfie’s were still open” in Miami and a half-dozen other cities where Wolfie Cohen opened delis in midcentury Florida.

Yet for all the complaints about the death of old-school New York-style delis in the state, there is a revival in monster $13 sandwiches of pastrami and corned beef (with a schmear of chopped liver), bowtie pasta and kasha across Florida.

Behind the trend is a group of young chefs like Matthew Kuscher. “Kush,” who has a passel of hipster restaurants in Miami, has taken over Stephen’s delicatessen in Hialeah, which at 60 is the area’s oldest deli and was struggling.

 

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Tags: Dining & Travel, Feature

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