May 16, 2024

Triple Treat

Robert W. Tolf | 4/1/1997
Is it a thirst for revenge, a compelling search for the Good Life, or merely yearning for an imagined Great Gatsby past that impels more and more diners into the regal decadence of martinis, steaks and cigars?

Across Florida, the trendy trio of up-market tastes is in its prime as restaurants with the best-tuned antennae set aside cigar-friendly spaces. Michael's On East (1212 East Ave. South; 941/366-0007), Sarasota's class act and Golden Spoon winner that's celebrating its 10th anniversary, now features a slightly elevated space with cushy seating for watching people parade and listening to jazz while three super-strength smoke eaters keep the air clean.

In booming Boca, where there are already the excellent Maxwell's Chophouse on Palmetto Park Road and Fifth Avenue (561/347-7077) and New York Prime a block west of I-95 (2350 N.W. Executive Center Drive; 561/998-3881 - one of this year's Top Newcomers), another steakhouse has recently opened: Mickey G's Prime Steak & Seafood in the Shops of Boca (21073 Powerline Road; 561/487-9966), boasts the "Finest Steak and Seafood in Boca!" and the finest imported cigars.

It might be importing them from Mike's Cigars (1030 Kane Concourse, Bay Harbor; 305/866-2277), which started as a Miami Beach storefront 47 years ago and moved to its present headquarters in 1995. Mike's serves some 6,000 outlets and 50,000 customers a year as the country's largest distributor to both wholesale and retail customers. Forbes called it "one of the world's great cigar emporiums."

Weston's new Havana Republic (Country Isles Plaza; 954/384-6333) also has its roots in Miami Beach, where founding partner Alex Gimelstein started working in his family's cigar store at the age of nine. Now he's running a cigar club where members pay fees from $250 to $l,000 to stash their Macanudos and Montecristos in Spanish cedar lockers in a walk-in humidor.

In Palm Beach, Maurizio Ciminella and Glen Manfra, owners of the popular Amici (288 S. County Road; 561/832-0201), put a walk-in humidor in their new venture a few blocks away, Galaxy Grille (350 S. County Road; 561/833-9909). Amici has a wood-burning oven; Galaxy has a rotisserie for seafood as well as a members-only Humidor Club where aficionados savor their stogies.

In the vanguard of the current 1930s-style martini madness is Golden Spoon winner Cafe L'Europe (331 S. County Road; 561/655-4020), offering 15 martinis including the Palm Beacher with Citron Absolut, a suggestion of dry vermouth and an olive sporting a fill of sevruga caviar.

In south Florida, newcomers competing in the martini-cigar-steak trifecta include these personal favorites:

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Aldente

777 E. Atlantic Ave.

561/276-6379

Delray Beach

This four-month-old, indoor-outdoor success has a Monday through Friday, two-for-one Giant Martini Happy Hour. Call a halt after two so you can appreciate the talents of chef-partner Michael Norman. Sober up with asiago-crab-spinach layered portobello or Tuscan chili featuring his own basil-flecked chicken sausage with garlic and leeks. Then dig into a grilled veal chop or a slab of sushi-grade tuna coated with sesame seeds and black pepper held at bay by wasabi-zapped mashed potatoes. Lunch (M-F) and dinner, entrees $9 to $26, nightly.

Capital Grille

444 Brickell Ave.

305/374-4500

Miami

Shades of London's Savoy, with warm woods, thick leathers and a no-nonsense menu opening with martinis and climaxed by cigars. Part of a national chain, Capital Grille in the former Cye's Rivergate is the definition of a power lunch place; one-pound Idahos and 11 steak selections ranging from $17.95 for ten ounces of filet mignon to $26.95 for a 24-ounce Porterhouse or 20 ounces of steak au p?ivre for $27.95. Average check is $50 and up; the wine cellar is terrific. Lunch, Monday through Friday; dinner nightly.

Churchill's

10076 Griffin Road

954/680-0226

Cooper City

What else but cigars, champagne and cognac in a surprise named for one of the world's most famous smokers and sippers? Dine flanked by halbards in the l9th century pub or in Edwardian formality, indulging in steaks, prime rib, seafood and fine wines, en route to Churchill's Library for stogies. Dinner, with entrees $l4 to $24, nightly.

My Martini Grille

225 Clematis Street

561/832-8333

West Palm Beach

Proof positive of the revitalization of downtown West Palm Beach, this steakhouse-supper club opened in February, the offspring of Sforza Ristorante and the Dennis and Patti Max and Burt Rapoport triumvirate. The menu is more than just grilled steaks. There are three dozen specialty martinis to start off an evening of high energy, Clematis Street chic. Lunch (M-F) and dinner, with entrees $11 to $30, nightly.

La Rosada

524 Ocean Avenue

305/674-0411

Miami Beach

The film "Evita" and the success of "Forever Tango" should inspire local gauchos. It's so authentic they import the grill wood from Argentina along with a fine selection of that country's wines and the expertise needed for great steaks, ribs, chicken. Cigars? Of course. Lunch (Fri.-Sun.) and dinner, with entrees $12 to $28, nightly.

Shula's On The Beach

Sheraton Yankee Trader

954/355-4000

321 N. Atlantic Blvd.,

Ft. Lauderdale

It's the Miami Dolphin legend's latest steakhouse, opened in conjunction with hotel owners George Gill and his daughter Linda. The oceanfront location is great, the deck perfect for nibbling and dribbling. It's not exactly "The Best Steaks in South Florida!" as the ads proclaim, but the beef is good, ranging from $28 for a one-pound dry-aged New York strip, l0-ounce Black Angus filet mignon or 20-ounce bone-in Kansas City strip, to $30 for a 22-ounce Black Angus Porterhouse. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, entrees $14.50 to $30, daily.

32 EAST

32 E. Atlantic Avenue

561/276-7868

Delray Beach

A dynamite newcomer across from Old School Square, with a trio of owners who brought the chefs from California, source of their wines and much of their fresh produce. The menu changes daily; some of my favorite stuff -dayboat scallops, grilled fresh conch with spicy black bean dip, hangtown fry salad, pan-fried fresh North Carolina trout - are not always available. Of course, there are steaks and chops and also a second floor cigar room with its own menu of smokes and single malt scotches. Dinner, with entrees $l4 to $24, nightly.

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RESTAURANTS AROUND THE STATE

SOUTHEAST

CORAL GABLES

Christy's

3101 Ponce De Leon Blvd. (305/446-1400)

This paragon of consistency boasts the best steak, baked potato and Caesar salad in the Gables. Entrees $17-$32.

SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY

TAMPA

Bern's Steak House

1208 S. Howard Avenue (813/251-2421)

legendary steakhouse and a perennial Golden Spoon winner with the biggest wine list of any restaurant in the world. Entrees $14-$35.

NAPLES

Maxwell's On The Bay

4300 Gulfshore Blvd. North (941/263-1662)

A waterfront touch of class with Sunday brunch and a luncheon menu as noteworthy as the dinner seafood and steaks. Entrees $18-$28.

CENTRAL

ALTAMONTE SPRINGS

Maison & Jardin

430 S. Wymore Road (407/862-4410)

A country estate with magnificent garden setting and a menu of seasonal game, fresh fish and such standbys as beef Wellington, filet mignon and veal chop. Excellent wine cellar. Entrees $18-$28.

NORTHEAST

NEPTUNE BEACH

Sun Dog Diner

207 Atlantic Boulevard. (904/241-8221)

Across from the beach, classic diner comfort with an outer space look and neon, neon, neon. Try Tarzan-size steaks and grilled lamb chops or the grilled veggies over pasta. Entrees $11-16.

AVONDALE

Sterling's Cafe

3551 St. Johns Avenue (904/387-0700)

From gorgonzola-coated filet mignon, veal T-bones and porcini and lobster pasta to fried green tomatoes, tempura soft shells and seared foie gras. Entrees $14-$23.

NORTHWEST

HAVANA

Nicholson Farmhouse

State Road 12 West (904/539-5931)

A unique steakhouse in a 19th century farm building, far from the English club, big city trendsetters. Steaks are chargrilled with care for good, down-home eating. Entrees $11-$24.

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