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Faraway Places
Barnacle Ray's Yardarm
352/628-3327
5295 W. Cherokee Way
Homosassa
En route to this hideaway, ten miles from US 19 and 98 on County Road 409, stop at the sugar mill ruins to learn about sugar and molasses and its owner, David Levy Yulee, Florida's first senator. The road leads to the Riverside Inn, a good getaway base camp, and its two-story restaurant, for years known as The Yardarm until Ray and Lynn Wallace took over. The setting on the Homosassa River is romantically rustic with mounted fish and animal skins on the walls. Service is down-home friendly, and the seafood is fresh. Lunch and dinner, entrees $7-$17.
Big Hickory
941/992-0991
26107 Hickory Blvd.
Bonita Springs
John Rimes from nearby Cafe Margaux took over this casual collection of waterfront weathered woods last December, and he's only improved on the good starts made by the Bode bunch since 1969. Good seafood preparations, fresh fillets of grilled snapper and grouper, even steaks. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, entrees $7-$19.
Bigfish Mayaimi
305/373-1770
55 S.W. Miami Avenue Road
Miami
Opened November on the Miami River by Montse Guillen, who apprenticed in New York and Barcelona before taking over the Jamaican Shabeen Cookshack at South Beach's Marlin five years ago. An ultracasual indoor-outdoor restaurant with impeccably fresh seafood, delivered by boat a few feet from outdoor tables by fishermen who work the river and bay. Preparation is straightforward with Spanish and mediterranean accents. Lunch and dinner, entrees $6-$22.
Cabbage Rose
941/683-0772
235 N. Kentucky Ave.
Lakeland
An exquisite surprise in historic downtown Lakeland with more than a touch of class. Chef Fred Miller works wonders with such winners as chicken with mango chutney, fresh trout filled with minced crayfish, and duck breast boasting a cranberry-ginger crust. White chocolate mousse cake is a must for dessert. Lunch, except Sun.; dinner, entrees $12-$20, Fri.-Sat.
Capt. Hiram's
407/589-4345
1606 Indian River Dr.
Sebastian
Another great base camp with motel and marina, offering charters and cruises on the Indian River Lagoon. Dine waterside on a grand deck with a bar from the Bahamas, or inside surrounded by antiques. I like the salads and sandwiches, blackened grouper, perfectly broiled snapper, steaks hot off the grill and a parade of peerless pastabilities. Lunch and dinner, entrees $8-$15.
High Tides Snack Jack
904/439-3344
2805 S. Ocean Shore Blvd.
Flagler Beach
Why has this oceanfront shack been a winner since l950? Because Snack Jack has great food, friendly service and a "big blue lake out back with all these cool waves." I start with a steamed combo of clams, crab legs, oysters and shrimp and then get serious with a mouth-bending fish sandwich, super pasta salad or a fillet of fresh catch, prepared with skill and TLC. Eat indoors or out for lunch and dinner, entrees $8-$12.
Lighthouse Landing
904/761-9271
4940 S. Peninsula Drive
Ponce Inlet
Miss Genevieve is in charge of this piece of history on the original inlet, that used to be called Mosquito Inlet, and she'll fill you with Belly Timbers (pirates' name for food) and barrels of good grog. I start my trip to the past with popcorn shrimp or steamers, then something fresh from the deep broiler or fried: barbeque fish ribs, grilled shark or Miss Genevieve's Treasure, a 12-ounce charbroiled sirloin with broiled scallops and shrimp. Lunch and dinner, entrees $5-$21.
Oscar's Old Florida Grille
904/829-3794
614 Euclid Avenue
St. Augustine
This waterfront blast to the past, off A1A north of Vilano Beach, is a relative newcomer in these parts, with origins going back only to 1900. We treasure the assemblage of antique shacks, and we like the combo platter, featuring whole catfish flanked with frog legs and gator tail, the butternut grouper served with hush puppies, and crab-stuffed flounder. Lunch, Sat.-Sun., and dinner, entrees $9-$15, Wed.-Sun.
Saint Larry's
813/786-0077
34980 U.S. 19 North
Palm Harbor
Gigantic portions of quality fare stream from the kitchen and the bar next door (Friends) has one of the best wine cellars, collections of single malts and small-batch bourbons on the west coast. I start with sushi Kansas City style, razor-thin slices of sirloin mated with artichoke hearts, hearts of palm sprinkled with capers and onion. I follow that with almond-crusted grouper or what the boys call the Odd Couple, a pairing of duck breast and filet mignon. Dinner, entrees $10-$15, Mon.-Sat.
Stumpknockers
352/854-2288
Highway 200 at Withlacoochee River Bridge
Situated on the beautiful Withlacoochee between Ocala and Inverness and named for the bream-like fish hiding in the cypress stumps. I order bigger catches of the day: All-you-can-eat catfish dinners, the fresh slabs of snapper and grouper, something with shrimp and scallops, maybe the prime rib. Dinner, entrees $8-$14, Tues.-Sun.
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RESTAURANTS AROUND THE STATE
SOUTHEAST
JENSEN BEACH
11 Maple Street
3224 N.E. Maple Street (561/334-7714) The Perrin clan of peerless performers, Mike, Margie and Nita, run this antique-happy hideaway with a very much today kind of New Florida menu. Dinner, entrees $13-$25.
Cafe Du Parc
612 Federal Highway (561/845-0529) For 17 years, this provincial charmer of chef Pierre and wife-hostess Anne-Marie Latuberne has been serving the classics, from beef Wellington to rack of lamb, sweetbreads and bouillabaisse to cassoulet and Grand Marnier souffles. Dinner, entrees $12-$23.
SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY
MARCO ISLAND
Marek's Collier House
1121 Bald Eagle Drive (941/642-9948) European specialties in this pioneer's pad run so expertly by a pair of British expats doing everything right. Dinner, entrees $16-$25.
DELEON SPRINGS
Karling's Inn
4640 N. U.S. 17 (904/985-5535) Grand old home an hour's drive from all the Orlando overaction, serving duckling that's sheer delight and sensational schnitzels. Dinner, entrees $9-$19.
NORTHEAST
MICANOPY
Wildflowers Cafe
Highway 441 North (352/466-4330) With a fresh-catch commitment to freshness and a home-grown harvest of produce, this is a solid source of good eats close to all the history of the crossroads settlement. Lunch, dinner and weekend breakfast; entrees $8-$21.
NORTHWEST
MARIANNA
Red Canyon Grill
3297 Caverns Road (904/482-4256) Surprising Southwest decor corralled so far from the Navajos, west of Tallahassee. The chili is commendable, and the imagination innovative. Dinner, entrees $8-$15.
