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All Along The Avenue

In our search for streets of good eats, we've been spending more than a few dollars on Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach. This All-American City, singled out by Florida Trend as the best-run town in Florida [February 1995], is obviously friendly to new enterprises, especially restaurants, galleries and antique dealers. At one end of the 12-block avenue, stretching from A1A in the east to Swinton in the west, is a far-better-than-average Holiday Inn with a fine Sunday brunch. At the other end is the beautiful restoration of Old School Square. Elsewhere are three coffee shops that serve consistently good breakfasts and lunches: Joan Marees (450 E. Atlantic, 561/265-0120); The Green Owl (330 E. Atlantic, 561/272-7766) and the newer Twilight Cafe (205 E. Atlantic, 561/272-4330). The inventory of more ambitious efforts includes:

Aldente

Atlantic Plaza (561)276-6379

777 E. Atlantic Ave.

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Giant martinis and shaded sidewalk seating are two distinct advantages for this newcomer, but of greater importance is superb cheffing that produces outstanding soups, peerless pasta combinations and a terrific chopped salad featuring crudites and a quartet of Italian cheeses. Lunch and dinner, entrees $9 to $26, closed Monday.

The Blue Anchor

804 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)272-7272

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From the facade, which once graced a l9th century London pub, to traditional Sunday roasts and kegs of draught ales, steak and kidney pie, bangers n' mash, fish and chips, and a pair of Fleet Street expats in charge, this is Florida's most authentic pub. There's entertainment Thursday through Saturday. Lunch, dinner, entrees, $7 to $22, daily.

Boheme Bistro and Grill

1118 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)278-4899

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What started as a super sandwich shop added a dining room last fall. It's doing everything right, including such summer specials as $14.95 complete soup to dessert and coffee dinners, with New York strip steak, grilled Atlantic salmon, Greek shrimp with linguine and a Mideast platter of hummus, falafel and baba ghanoush. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, entrees $6 to $18, daily.

Busch's Seafood

840 Atlantic Ave. (561)278-7600

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The best setting on the avenue, smack on the Intracoastal with plenty of deck and porch seating. At noon, I like the sesame chicken and shrimp salads and salmon Nicoise; at night, broiled grouper in a fine garlic sauce, broiled Norwegian salmon almondine; and anytime the she-crab soup. Lunch and dinner, entrees $18 to $27, daily.

City Limits

29 S.E. Second Avenue (561)279-8222

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Located in a courtyard with stage and outside bar, with an inspired Southwest menu with white bean-chorizo chili, steak fajitas, tortilla-crusted salmon, poblano-stuffed free-range chicken and marvelous roasted potatoes. Lunch, Wed.to Saturday; dinner, entrees $5 to $19, Tues. to Sunday.

Dakotah 624

270 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)274-6244

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The name honors the birth dates of the owner-operators' children; the menu honors the Southwest, with Creole, Continental and New American overtones. This 190-seater is superbly cheffed, with crab cakes, horseradish crusted salmon on baby greens with a sherry-wine vinaigrette and double smoked pork chops. Dinner, entrees $16 to $32, closed Sunday.

Elwood's Dixie Bar-b-que

301 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)272-7427

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This open-air converted gas station, complete with pump at the entrance, is strictly informal - and fun. The gumbo and blackened catfish are back bayou at its best, and the pulled pork barbecue with a side of chopped collards is pure Southern. Lunch on weekends; dinner, entrees $6 to $13, Wednesday to Saturday.

Erny's

1010 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)276-9191

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Jazz on Tuesdays and entertainment every night in this ultra-comfortable, cozy magnet pulling in locals since the l970s. The perfect place for liver and onions, at $16 the most moderately priced among the entrees, which top out at $23 for lamb chops. Lunch, dinner daily.

Hoot, Toot & Whistle

290 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)243-0140

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This recapturing of the Orient Express is a hoot when the train roars by, and a toot when you face the crunchiest of coated shrimp or soft-shell crab, preludes to top quality meats off the grill, with garlic smashed potatoes and peppercorn gravy. Dinner, entrees $14 to $31, Tues. to Sunday.

Peter's Stone Crabs

411 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)278-0036

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The old Arcade Tap Room was saved and revived by the Guttuso clan, who've made crab, one of Florida's greatest natural resources, the star of the show. But outside the October to May claw-yanking season, there is northern Jonah stone crab plus a full menu of other seafood, steaks and pasta. Dinner, entrees $12 to $20, Tues. to Sunday.

Rheingold

640 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)276-2308

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Chef Fritz, Margit, Sylvie and Wolfgang Calaminus run a "gem?tlich" little "gasthaus" where the beer flows, the pork loins are smoked, the wurst is the best and there's no bottom to the pots of kraut and red cabbage. Dinner entrees from $10 to $21, and off-season specials with complete meals for $14.50. Nightly except Sunday and Monday during the off season.

Splendid Blendeds Cafe

432 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)265-1035

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Richard and Nellie Lemon are the chef-owners of this delightful storefront with friendly service and an upbeat menu. I start with a duck and wild mushroom quesadilla, and save for later the grilled yellowfin tuna with sauteed mushrooms and fresh garlic and balsamic syrup. Lunch, Mon. to Friday; dinner, entrees $10 to $18, Mon. to Saturday. Closed from mid July to Labor Day.

32 East

32 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)276-7868

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Destined to become one of the best restaurants in the state, this two-story is a tribute to the skills and experience of the three owners who installed a California style menu and California- trained chefs. (They're on view along the back wall - in an unobtrusive way.) The wine list is excellent, and for cigar lovers there's a second-floor room with good ports, cognacs and single malts. Dinner, entrees $11 to $22, nightly.

Yama

44 E. Atlantic Ave. (561)266-9929

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The old Arcade Tap Room was saved and revived by the Guttuso clan, who've made crab, one of Florida's greatest natural resources, the star of the show. But outside the October to May claw-yanking season, there is northern Jonah stone crab plus a full menu of other seafood, steaks and pasta. Dinner, entrees $12 to $20, Tues. to Sunday.

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Restaurants

Around The State

Southeast

FORT LAUDERDALE

Cafe Mediterraneo

6241 N. Federal Highway

(954)491-0890

The brothers Spina, Mario by the burners and Salvatore out front, have a class cafe with outstanding presentations. Dinner, entrees $17 - $32.

Southwest/Tampa Bay

CLEARWATER

Grill at Feather Sound

2325 Ulmerton Road

(813)571-3400

Menu changes daily. Look for crab cakes and quesadillas, blackened grouper, prime rib and creme brulee. Lunch, dinner, entrees $16 - $29.

Central

WINTER PARK

Park Plaza Gardens

319 Park Avenue South

(407)645-2475

A glassed-in garden of delights with Sunday brunches far more sophisticated and waist-watching sensible than most. Lunch, dinner, entrees $20 - $28.

Northeast

ATLANTIC BEACH

Ragtime Tavern and Seafood Grill

207 Atlantic Boulevard

(904)241-7877

Bill and Tom Morton run a popular beach fixture with a wine cellar, on-site brewery and grilled fresh fish. Lunch, dinner, entrees $10 - $18.