Inspiring this innovation: the ever- increasing number of Japanese restaurants in Florida.
At Epcot, there's Tempura Kiki and Mitsukoshi Teppanyaki, marked by a five-story pagoda atop a splendid copy of the 7th century Horyuji shrine at Nara. In the Orlando area alone, there are more than 10 other Japanese restaurants to take seriously, including the eye-popping giant Ran-Getsu of Tokyo (8400 International Drive, 407/345-0044), overlooking Japanese gardens and a Koi-filled pond. Here are some other personal favorites from around the state:
Cornell Cafe
34000 Morikami Park Road 561/495-0233
Delray Beach
Perhaps the finest setting for sushi in the country is here in the heart of the 200-acre Morikami Museum & Japanese Gardens - a gift from land owner George Sukeji Morikami - site of the yearly Hatsume Fair and Bon Festival. Chef in charge is Chinese-born Fu Chen, who expertly assembles such specialties as the compartmentalized Bento Box artfully filled with salmon teriyaki, eggplant in garlic sauce, pork-spinach dumplings, shrimp and chicken-enhanced tofu showered with sesame. Open daily for lunch with the most expensive entree the $12 Bento Box.
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DaRuMa
Sarasota Quay 941/951-2440
Sarasota
Enjoy bayfront beauty with great views of the water as the chef whirls blades before your very eyes and uses the Teppan grill as center stage for the kind of flame-and-flash searing of chicken, steak, lobster and shrimp made famous by Benihana. Or, avoid the community table for either a private one or the sushi bar, starting off your meal with tempura and yakitori. Dinner, entrees $10 to $30, nightly.
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Ichiban
2411 S. University Drive 954/370-0767
Davie
The name is apt - it means No. 1 in Japanese - and the smiling corps de kimono and crew of ambidextrous sushi chefs work hard to earn the title. They have a special talent for extracting the last morsel of flavor and succulence from eggplant. Their tempura dishes are terrific, as are the 40 sushi rolls and the bowls brimful of rice, seafood and vegetables. Lunch and dinner, entrees $9 to $l4, daily.
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Mido
2430 N. University Drive 954/742-9197
Sunrise
Located close to the Han Yang Oriental Market (8033 W. Oakland Park Blvd.), a reliable source for sacks of rice and bags of mung and soy beans, fresh bok choy and ginger root, this overachiever specializes in Korean as well as Japanese cuisine. That means bugogi and kimchee in addition to teriyaki treats and tempura, and a sushi bar open until 2 a.m. Lunch is served Monday to Friday and dinner daily, entrees $8 to $l5.
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Osaka Sushi
9168 Glades Road 561/451-9919
Boca Raton
Opened last December by a Taiwanese and Jewish team expert enough to conduct sushi classes,this hideaway seats just 10 aficionados fortunate enough to chopstick their way through rolls with such bizarre names as Dirty Old Man, Dancing Eel, First Love, Honey Moon and No Name. My favorite is their Birthday Roll: an avocado crown atop eel, salmon, tempura shrimp, asparagus, masago and cream cheese. Lunch and dinner, entrees $9 to $24, daily.
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Sushi Blues Cafe
1836 South Young Circle 954/929-9560
Hollywood
The jazzy owners here, sax-man supreme Kenny Millions with wife and executive chef Junko Maslak whisking at the wok and daughter Melissa strumming the bass, proclaim their mixture of Japanese and Continental fare "New Wave Japanese Cuisine." It's presented with a background of live blues Friday and Saturday and vintage Hollywood hodge-podge surroundings every night. If you've got a weakness for thick slabs of garlic- and ginger-studded tuna or teriyaki-basted grilled chicken with papaya chili salsa followed by unforgettable sweet climaxes, this is the place. Dinner, entrees $11 to $20, nightly.
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Sushi Republic
9583 Harding Ave. 305/867-8036
Surfside
This simple storefront is turning heads - at least golfers' - with its Tiger Woods roll, a par-smasher made with avocado and salmon layered on cream cheese and tuna. Another favorite: thinly sliced beef tenderloin negimaki hugging a harvest of lusciously green scallion tops. For dessert, try deep-fried banana melting a blob of ice cream. Lunch, Tuesday to Friday; dinner, entrees $8 to $10, Tuesday to Sunday.
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Sushi Rock Las Olas
1515 E. Las Olas Blvd. 954/462-5541
Fort Lauderdale
If you knew sushi like I know sushi, you'd understand why the revitalized street of great eats merits two Japanese headliners: Chef-owner Gotaro Kamioka's 10-year-old Japanese Village (716 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/763-8163) and Sushi Rock. Stacked-to-the-gunwales sushi-sashimi boats are the visual draw, and the eclectic music provides aural attraction. Lunch and dinner, entrees $12 to $20, daily.
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Tokyo Bowl
1361 E. Commercial Blvd. 954/776-2847
Fort Lauderdale
Opened two years ago with unashamed specialization in Japanese fast food, this little block house has a solid variety of sashimi and such rolls as Spicy Tuna, with sliced scallions and kimchee sauce; Mexican, with avocado, fish egg and tempura shrimp; and Boston, featuring cucumber, shrimp and light Japanese mayo. I like the King Kong with kimchee and fresh conch, and the Dynamite with scallops, masago and regular Japanese mayo. The crowds like the All You Can Eat Sushi specials for $12.79. Lunch and dinner, entrees $4 to $13.50, daily.
Restaurants Around the State
SOUTHEAST
KEY WEST
Cafe des Artistes
1007 Simonton St. 305/294-7100
Savor artistic achievements such as cognac-flamed lobster or shrimp sauteed in creole shellfish sauce with candied pecans and Parmesan croutons. Dinner, entrees $23 - $30.
SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY
FORT MYERS
Bijou Cafe
1287 First St. 941/366-8111
Owner-chef Jean Pierre Knaggs creates incomparable crabcakes and the best potatoes dauphinois in the state, along with fit-and-trim menu selections for the health-conscious. Lunch and dinner, entrees $13 - $23.
CENTRAL
WINDMERE
Parramore House Cafe
625 Main Street 407/876-5666
New Zealand lamb spooned with rosemary au jus, strawberry-marinated shrimp, beef tenderloin with shiitake mushrooms and Atlantic salmon braced by a blueberry-peach-brandy tribute, all served in an intimate little charmer. Lunch and dinner, entrees, $17 - $23.
NORTHEAST
ST. AUGUSTINE
La Parisienne
60 Hypolita St. 904/829-0055
Expect good execution of the classics, be it escargot in puff pastry with garlic cream sauce, onion soup gratin?e or fresh fish meuniere. Lunch and dinner, entrees $9.50 - $26.
NORTHWEST
DESTIN
Marina Cafe
404 East Hwy. 98 850/837-7960
Herbs grown locally and an eclectic menu of treats from round the world - Pan Pacific, Mediterranean, Creole and Southwestern - complement a panoramic view of the harbor. Dinner, entrees $16 - $24.