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Class & Character

This is Florida Trend's 32nd year of presenting the nation's most prestigious regional restaurant awards: Golden Spoons for the state's top 20 restaurants and certificates to the best 20 newcomers and 200 of Florida's finest. There were only two changes from 1998's Golden Spoon winners. Darrel & Oliver's Cafe Maxx returned to the winners' circle, having solved the digestive problems that can occur when opening another restaurant, East City Grille in Fort Lauderdale, which this year made it to the Top 200.

The Renaissance Vinoy wins a spoon for the first time, in recognition of the outstanding restaurants in that reborn resort, where special-event culinary creations also merit acclaim. Food and beverage director Michael Speicher and executive chef Tom Chin put together a Peruvian menu to complement the Empires of Mystery exhibit at the Florida International Museum, and then executed a superb Victorian dinner for the "Christmas Carol" presentation by the great-great-grandson of Charles Dickens.

Among spoonies, family is often involved in the time-devouring challenge of running an operation, whether it's a partnership like Manuel's, Mise en Place and Cafe L'Europe or a team supporting the travels and guest-chef appearances of the proprietors at Chef Allen's, Mark's Las Olas, Norman's, Criolla's and Euphemia Haye. At the Crystal Cafe, Klime Kovaceski's wife is in the office, his mother-in-law is an occasional inspiration and source of splendid recipes in the back room. Chalet Suzanne is still a family operation and is at peak form, thanks to the skilled supervision of Larry Stafford, director of food operations.

Bernard Perron, patriarch of another clan of restaurateurs, says, "We used to support one family with one restaurant, now we have to support three families with two restaurants." In the kitchen at Brooks, Perron's son-in-law Jon Howe is in charge, Jon's wife Lisa Perron runs the front room and mother Kathy Perron is in the office watching over the books. Son Marc moves between Brooks and the beautifully expanded Benvenuto in Boynton Beach, where son-in-law Jean-Philippe Gaudree is in charge. It's also a family affair for McGuire and Molly Martin, with son Jim, CIA-certified chef, serving as manager of McGuire's Irish Pub, and son Bill running the show at the McGuire spinoff in Destin.

Michael's on East retreated from its wine and gourmet food shop and perfected Michael's Seafood Grille, which joined the 200 Best with new executive chef John Mancini, brother of Michael Klauber's partner Philip. After 14 years perfecting the Beach Bistro, proprietor Sean Murphy teamed up with executive chef Charles Dekranis, who won a couple of Golden Spoons when he was in charge of Arthur's 27, to open Bistro at Island's End, with more than twice the capacity and the same dedication to innovative Gulf Coast cuisine as the parent. Also branching out, Las Olas' Mark Militello made a major commitment last month, opening Mark's at the Park in Boca Raton's hot Mizner Park.

Perennial winner Bern's Steak House recently took a great leap forward, redecorating its adjacent SideBerns and installing crusader Jeannie Pierola, the genius who put Ybor City's Boca on the gastronomic map. In addition to her New World menu at SideBerns and winemaker dinners, she's introducing a caviar bar, cheese cave and on-view shellfish selection at Bern's.

Three of last year's top newcomers folded -- Bex, Masson's and Second Street Cafe -- but seven made it to the Top 200. Palm Beach's Aquaterra and Galaxy Grille, 32 East in Delray Beach, La Palme d'Or in Coral Gables, Hollywood's Giorgios Grill, the Blue Moon Fish Company in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea and Salt Rock Grill in Indian Shores.

The Golden Spoon Winners

Beach Bistro, Holmes Beach

Bern's Steak House, Tampa

Brooks Restaurant, Deerfield Beach

Cafe L'Europe, Palm Beach

Chalet Suzanne, Lake Wales

Chef Allen's, North Miami Beach

Criolla's, Grayton Beach

Crystal Cafe, Miami Beach

Darrel & Oliver's Cafe Maxx, Pompano Beach

Euphemia Haye, Longboat Key

Manuel's on the 28th, Orlando

Mark's Las Olas, Fort Lauderdale

McGuire's Irish Pub, Pensacola

Michael's on East, Sarasota

Mise en Place, Tampa

Norman's, Coral Gables

The Restaurant, Palm Beach

Renaissance Vinoy Resort, St. Petersburg

Ritz-Carlton, Naples

Victoria & Albert's, Walt Disney World