May 17, 2024

Florida's Top 200 Restaurants

Robert W. Tolf | 2/1/2001
Price Key: Price of complete dinner for two, including appetizer, entree and dessert (excluding drinks and tip).
$ = Less than $40 ? | ? $$ = $40 to $60 ? | ? $$$ = $60 to $80 ? | ? $$$$ = More than $80


NORTHWEST

APALACHICOLA
Chef Eddie's Magnolia Grill
99 11th St., 850/653-8000
Eddie and Bettye Cass have expanded a bit to handle a growing catering business, and they've modernized their display kitchen and installed not one but two chef's tables where you can watch up close the TLC handling of local bivalves and learn how to make superb seafood bisques and gumbos and give dolphin the Louisiana Pontchartrain treatment. Dinner: $$

DESTIN
Beachwalk Cafe
2996 Scenic Highway 98 East, 850/650-7100
Executive chef Timothy Creehan executes to perfection his credo: "Secure the best and freshest. Prepare with style, simply." But that doesn't mean there's no room for Asian, French and Italian accents, or time for successful catering or frequent TV appearances, cooking classes and book promotions. Lunch and dinner: $$

Destin Chops
320 East U.S. 98, 850/654-4944
Local answer to the Morton and Ruth's Chris crowd with prime beef, but don't overlook the grilled or pan-seared veal rib chop, twin lamb loin chops, grilled salmon or black pepper-crusted yellowfin tuna. Dinner: $$$

Elephant Walk
9300 U.S. 98 West
Sandestin, 850/267-4800
Of course they serve the trendy tuna like executive chef Jason Kirwan's coriander and cumin-crusted Ahi with oriental veggies, risotto crab cake and passion fruit ginger vinaigrette. Dinner: $$$

Flamingo Cafe
414 East U.S. 98, 850/837-0961
Delightful, inspiring setting with a solicitous staff and a menu that treats with respect its stock of land-locked meats and knows what to do with fresh fish, preceded by a notable salad of baby greens with applewood-smoked bacon, roasted sweet peppers and goat cheese. Dinner: $$$

Marina Cafe
404 East U.S. 98, 850/837-7960
Executive chef Chris Dutka is in charge of a contemporary continental menu using fresh local resources and imports from Louisiana like crawfish and red fish, handled with doses of TLC in a smashing mod setting to match the food. Dinner: $$$

Seagar's
Hilton Sandestin Beach, 850/622-1500
You don't have to be a cigar-chomping, martini-swirling bull like their logo to enjoy the prime steaks, double cut loin lamb chops, Maine lobster and Dover sole delivered by a formal and professionally proud staff in a sophisticated setting. Dinner: $$$

GRAYTON BEACH
Criolla's
Highway 30A and Road 283, 850/267-1267
The incomparable chef-owner Johnny Earles continues to stun the locals -- and folks further afield as a guest chef -- with his always innovative inspiration, utilizing with great skill the freshness from land and sea from Florida and beyond. Dinner: $$

HAVANA
Nicholson Farmhouse
State Road 12 West, 850/539-5931
An authentically old-timey hideaway that chargrills its steaks with great care, offering seafood and chicken as alternatives for the fans who appreciate the down-home basics. Dinner: $$

MARIANNA
Red Canyon Grill
3297 Caverns Road, 850/482-4256
A surprising setting in the heart of the Panhandle, a place to indulge in the spices and chilis of the Southwest with wood-grilled quesadillas and such weekly specialties as crawfish and buffalo burgers. Dinner: $

PANACEA
Angelo's Seafood Restaurant
U.S. 98 at the bridge, 850/984-5168
"Be sure to bring your appetite" is the advice given when you phone for information at this terrific water-hugging setting on Ochlockonee Bay where Angelo Petrandis prepares some of the best seafood in the state. Dinner and Sunday lunch: $

PANAMA CITY BEACH
Captain Anderson's Restaurant
5551 N. Lagoon Drive, 850/234-2225
This landmark closes in the off-season, reopening in February, when guests can again watch the fresh harvests from the deep unloaded on the dock a few conch shells away. Shrimp dishes are a specialty, and so too are the breads and pastries baked out back. Dinner: $

PENSACOLA
Chan's Gulfside Seafood and Oyster House
Via De Luna, 850/932-3525
A double-decker smack on the Gulf of Mexico with al fresco informality and fresh fish carefully prepared Pensacola style, and a wine list that pays full compliments to the seafood. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $

Jackson's
400 S. Palafox St., 850/469-9898
In the heart of historic downtown Pensacola, Irv Miller holds forth with chef Scott Weichbrodt serving specialties like herb dijon-crusted mini veal rack and teaming up the white chocolate pecan pie with cinnamon creme fraiche ice cream. Dinner: $$

Jamie's
424 E. Zaragoza St., 850/434-2911
With an extensive wine list and French mastery in the kitchen, this 19th-century home is a perfect escape as you explore the rich history of Seville Square. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Jubilee Restaurant
400 Quietwater Beach Road, 850/934-3108
Life's not a cabaret; it's a jubilee, a multi-barreled one with TopSide for fine dining, waterfront deck for snacking, plus a sweet shop, bars and lounges and lots of special-event happenings. Lunch and dinner: Topside $$, Downstairs $

McGuire's Irish Pub
600 E. Gregory St., 850/433-6789
Florida's quintessential bit of blarney with a mind-boggling assemblage of Irish artifacts, mooseheads, hats, helmets and greenbacks, a Notre Dame room and Irish Politicians' Club, on-site brewery and imposing wine cellar dining room -- with more of the same in an offshoot in Destin. Lunch and dinner: $$

SEAGROVE BEACH
Cafe Thirty-A
3899 E. Scenic Highway 30A, 850/231-2166
Indoor-outdoor setting close to Seaside and featuring marvelous martinis and excellent wines, rotisserie grill and wood-burning oven for the pampering of fresh fish, top-quality meats and peerless pizzas. Dinner: $$

Sandor's European Cuisine
2984 Highway 395, 850/231-2858
The proud home of chef-proprietor Sandor Zombori, who redefines himself nightly as he puts to great use what he's learned from working alongside some of the great chefs in the country -- and abroad; but he usually has something Hungarian on the menu and is always there to share his enthusiasm and knowledge. Dinner: $$

SEASIDE
Bud & Alley's
Route C 30-A, 850/231-5900
More than a few Florida chefs who are now making headlines have trained alongside owners Scott Witcoski and Dave Rauschkolb, who continue to create their own brand of New World Cuisine, grilling freshness from sea and land, blending superior sauces with judicious additions of wine and local herbs, introducing their loyal clientele to fine wines. Lunch and dinner: $$$

TALLAHASSEE
Andrew's Capital Bar & Grill
& Andrew's Second Act

228 S. Adams St., 850/222-3444
Upstairs casual sports bar grill and downstairs a class act with continental menu and fine-dining accouterments, a combo to please all palates and pocketbooks. Lunch and dinner: $$

Chez Pierre
1215 Thomasville Road, 850/222-0936
Chef Eric Favier and Karen Cooley are the husband-wife team in charge of this indoor-outdoor retreat with the finest French-inspired fare, super soups and breads, select wines, friendly service. Lunch and dinner: $$

Georgio's
Carriage Gate, 3425 Thomasville Road, 850/893-4161
Chefs Grant Beane and Patrick Molthen are the terrific twosome who produce for owner George Koikos some of the best food in all north Florida, from gumbo and she-crab soup to blue-crab-stuffed gulf snapper, garlic-loaded filet mignon and rack of lamb. Lunch and dinner: $$

Silver Slipper
531 Slipper Lane, 850/386-9366
An old shoe beloved by legislators and lobbyists who like the private booths, the honest bar and old-timey super-friendly staff, the fillets of fresh fish from waters near and far and the solid steaks. Dinner: $$

The Wharf
1480 Timberlane Road, 850/894-4443
The fire of '98 is just a bad memory as the team in charge of this informal watering hole continues to provide the best seafood in town at down-home, pocket-pleasing prices. The shrimp is supreme, but don't sell the rib-eyes and fried chicken short. Dinner: $


NORTHEAST

AMELIA ISLAND/FERNANDINA BEACH
Beech Street Grill
801 Beech St., 904/277-3662
Rick and Elizabeth Erickson have brought new life to time-worn surrounds by introducing local palates to their own version of New World cuisine, whisking up imaginative and natural sauces, assembling a tempting array of desserts and selecting fine wines to accompany. Dinner: $$

Horizons Continental Cuisine
802 Ash St., 904/321-2430
The dynamic mother-daughter team of Beebe and Courtney Thompson keeps local palates tickled with the likes of tequila-spiked gravlax on brie, crostinis with Pommery mustard sauce, blackened snapper Oscar and tuna Napoleon layered with spinach with ginger-wasabi cream. Dinner: $$

Ritz-Carlton Amelia Island
4750 Amelia Island Pkwy., 904/277-1100
Flagship front-runner with impeccable service and superior chefing in The Grill and The Cafe 4750 with all kinds of cooking seminars, tea parties and wine festivals as extra reasons to check in for a day, week or month. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: The Cafe $$$, The Grill $$$$

ATLANTIC BEACH
Ragtime Tavern and Seafood Grill
207 Atlantic Blvd., 904/241-7877
Owner Gordon Biersch keeps this beach landmark a magnet with schools of fresh fish flying off the grill to be consumed with a good selection of wines and beer -- straight from the on-site microbrewery. Lunch and dinner: $$

CEDAR KEY
The Island Room Restaurant
at Cedar Cove, 352/543-6520
Chef-proprietor Peter Stefani exploits local resources for stunning seafood specialties like shrimp surrounded by flaky pastry and crab stuffed with more crab. His enthusiasm and desire to educate extend to his cellar, and he sponsors various wine dinners throughout the year. Dinner: $$

FLAGLER BEACH
Topaz Cafe and Porch
1224 S. Ocean Shore Blvd., 904/439-3275
A fascinating setting past an historic hotel lobby overloaded with antiques and interesting artifacts with a super-solicitous staff and a kitchen able to dance on the culinary cutting edge of New Florida cuisine. Desserts are decidedly decadent. Dinner: $$

GAINESVILLE
The Sovereign Restaurant
12 S.E. Second Ave., 352/378-6307
There's a welcome stirring in the city with trendy little cafes popping up here and there, but this landmark remains the most reliable place for classic continental cuisine, delivered by Swiss chef Elmo Moser and wife Lupe, who have been at this stand for a quarter-century. Dinner: $$$

JACKSONVILLE
Bistro AIX
1440 San Marco Blvd., San Marco, 904/398-1949
Snack on one of chef Tom Gray's wood-fired designer pizzas or feast on a tangle of shrimp and tagliatelle or one of the fresh fish-of-the-day specials, given the "Aixoise" treatment over oak. Lunch and dinner: $$

Matthew's at San Marco
2107 Hendricks Ave., San Marco, 904/396-9422
Understated downtown chic with master chef-owner Matthew Medure in charge of consistently challenging menus, working with prime beef and fresh, succulent seafood presented with great pride by a highly professional staff. Dinner: $$$

Marker 32
14549 Beach Blvd., 904/223-1534
A dramatic second deck setting overlooking the Intracoastal and the marsh with chef Ben Groshell in able command of the grill and saute pan, producing top-quality seafood, lamb chops, steaks and filets cut from Angus beef. Dinner: $$$

Sterlings of Avondale
3551 St. Johns Ave., 904/387-0700
Owner Frank Gallo spent a dozen years building up the reputation of this sterling endeavor, magically turning it into gold last year and keeping it brightly burnished despite a side effort with restaurant No. 2, Bistro 17 in Murray Hill. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $$$

Wilfried's 24 Miramar
4446 Hendricks Ave., 904/448-2424
Frank Hall and chef-partner Wilfried Hausy have added art to the menu for a delightful restaurant and gallery in one. Still serving such specialties as ostrich prepared any which way but on wing and a Beggar's Purse rich with shrimp, scallops, salmon and lobster wrapped in thin-thin phyllo and blessed with brandied lobster sauce. Dinner: $$$

The Wine Cellar
1314 Prudential Drive, 904/398-8989
Wines, of course, are a great strength here, but the luncheon salads are superb, as are the jerk-seasoned tuna, tournedos au poivre and rack of lamb bordelaise. Where else can you dine under a 200-year-old oak? Lunch and dinner: $$$$

JACKSONVILLE BEACH
Giovanni's
1161 Beach Blvd., 904/249-7787
The father-son team of Giovanni and Toni Acireale has the best of both possible worlds, old and new Italian, running the gamut from sauteed quail with sun-dried tomatoes and cognac to shrimp tempura. Dinner: $$

PONTE VEDRA BEACH
The Augustine Grille
Marriott at Sawgrass, 1000 TPC Blvd., 904/285-7777
Super-luxe resort with golf greens galore provides the backdrop for a class dining room with a skilled staff and a back room able to handle the challenges of bringing New World cuisine and California cuisine to northeast Florida. Dinner: $$$

ST. AUGUSTINE
A1A Ale Works Brewery & Restaurant
1 King St., 904/829-2977
Sensational capstone creation featuring wrap-around second-deck viewing of the famous bridge and the old town. New World fun-filled menu and on-site shiny brass brewery. Lunch and dinner: $$

Gypsy Cab Company
828 Anastasia Blvd., 904/824-8244
Cadillac food in a 1946 Chevy setting, with chef-owner Ned Pollack having fun here with Floribbean adaptations and island spices, transcontinental sauces and Pacific Rim Thai inspirations. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $

Le Pavillon
45 San Marco Ave., 904/824-6202
Since April 1977, chef-owner Claude Sinatsch has been serving consistently reliable food at budget-pleasing prices, from the crepes and omelets to the trout almondine, schnitzels and sauer-braten. His wife, Gisela, is in charge of the front room, which is filled with Old Country charm, and son Claude -- a recent culinary school graduate -- helps Dad out back. Lunch and dinner: $

Saltwater Cowboy's
299 Dondanville Road, 904/471-2332
Rustic hideaway tucked into the marshes, serving good ol' boy cracker cuisine with down-home honesty everywhere around, from the fresh seafood to the finger-lickin' good ribs. Dinner: $


CENTRAL

ALTAMONTE SPRINGS
Straub's Seafood
512 E. Altamonte Springs Drive, 407/831-2250
5101 E. Colonial Drive, Orlando, 407/273-9330
Chef-proprietor Rob Straub is the painstaking professional who takes all the extra steps necessary to ensure his two kitchens are regularly supplied with fresh fish -- the whole fish for filleting by his crew, be it New England scrod or Florida black grouper. Steaks are also noteworthy. Dinner: $$

Maison & Jardin
430 S. Wymore Road, 407/862-4410
Handsomely landscaped country manse of great class with formal service to match and a menu with such standbys as filet mignon, rack of lamb, veal chop, seasonal game and an excellent wine cellar. Sunday brunch in season and dinner: $$$

COCOA BEACH
Bernard's Surf
2 S. Atlantic Ave., 321/783-2401
Now into its second half-century of success serving fresh seafood off its own boats, with an adjacent raw bar as casual as its spinoff on the docks of Port Canaveral. Order the catch of the day, some rock shrimp or those super-succulent Calico scallops. Lunch and dinner: $$

The Mango Tree
118 N. Atlantic Ave., 321/799-0513
One of the most lushly landscaped restaurant settings in the state, an enchanted garden with more magic coming from the kitchen, where the accent is on New World cuisine. Pasta is particularly easy to recommend as are the desserts. Dinner: $$

COCOA VILLAGE
Cafe Margaux
220 Brevard Ave., 321/639-8343
Pamela and Alexander Litras are the happy owners of this little gem, polishing it to perfection, organizing exciting wine dinners and serving such surprises as pan-seared pheasant breast over green pea pancakes with cashews, grapes and apricot port wine sauce. Lunch and dinner: $$

DE LEON SPRINGS
Karling's Inn Restaurant
4640 N. U.S. 17, 904/985-5535
The Caeners son, Wayne -- with wife Heather -- is now in charge of this happy little home, and he's added some contemporary fun to a menu that still shines with the joys of the German kitchen -- jaegerschnitzel with red cabbage, duckling, and tempura battered fried lobster tails. Dinner: $$

LONGWOOD
Enzo's Restaurant On The Lake
1130 S. Highway 17-92, 407/834-9872
For 21 years, ebullient chef-owner Enzo Perlini has been holding forth in this felicitous encapsulation of all good things Italian, providing the perfect place to learn all about the magic of Italian cuisine and Italian wines and Italian charm. Dinner: $$

NEW SMYRNA BEACH
Norwood's Restaurant & Wine Shop
400 2nd Ave., 904/428-4621
Seafood is only one of the specialties in this landmark rustic rambler. Others are the wine list, the wine shop, the mail-order business, the fact that it's the very model of a good-value-for-the-money discovery. Lunch and dinner: $

ORLANDO
Arthur's 27
Wyndham Palace Resort & Spa, 1900 Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407/827-3450
Panoramic views of sunsets and Disney fireworks are only two of the reasons to put this recently renovated landmark on your gastronomic grand tour. Food and service are reasons enough, whether you order the ubiquitous Chilean sea bass or the excellent beef. Dinner: $$

Chatham's Place
7575 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407/345-2992
The staff is all smiles in this delightful little refuge from all the theme-park hoopla, and they do a super job on shrimp and rack of lamb and serve black (not the lesser gag or red) grouper, sauteed and slathered with pecan butter. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Christini's Ristorante Italiano
7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407/345-8770
There can't be a restaurant award that overachieving proprietor Chris Christini has not received and does not have displayed on his walls. And you'll give your own after working through the extensive, classic menu -- with good wines -- served by a very professional staff. Dinner: $$$

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House
729 Lee Road, 407/645-4443
There's top-quality prime beef backing up all the hype as well as Down Under lobster tails and good wine selection in this classic high energy All American winner. Dinner: $$$$

Dux/The Peabody
9801 International Drive, 407/352-4000
You'll go quackers over this stunningly attractive enclave of elegance, with fine offerings from the world's cuisines -- everything but duck -- presented with a good deal of fuss and finery. If you tire of that, try the excellent Italian grand ristorante alongside, Capriccio's, or the B-Line Diner. Dinner: $$$

Emeril's
City Walk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407/224-2424
The master of outrageousness is seldom part of the scenery in this warehouse of uptown chic, but his presence is certainly felt out back in the barbecue shrimp, oysters smothered with blue cheese and banana
cream pie -- part of his Dessert Storm. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Johnny Rivers' Smokehouse & BBQ Co.
5370 W. Colonial Drive, 407/293-5803
Read the walls in this eponymous enclave and learn why Disney veteran Johnny Rivers has such a passion for down-home happiness and then dig into a mass of smoked, pulled pork corralled by roasted corn hoe cakes slathered with maple syrup. Lunch and dinner: $

La Coquina
Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress Resort, Lake Buena Vista, 407/239-1234
Hyatt pulls out all the stops at this flagship location, which has the best of Sunday groaning board buffets, a well-supervised staff working in a romantic lakefront room complete with piano and a menu that sparkles with New Florida finds. Dinner and Sunday brunch: $$$$

Le Coq au Vin
4800 S. Orange Ave., 407/851-6980
You will be happily transported to the provinces of France by Louis and Magadalena Perrotte -- he whisking out back and she running the front room with great elan, serving the namesake chicken in wine, braised rabbit, rack of lamb with rosemary-freckled potatoes and bronzed grouper. Lunch and dinner: $$

Le Provence Bistro Francais
50 E. Pine St., 407/843-1320
Two-story space with upfront lounge and chef Jean-Paul Cheauveril in command of a menu headlining almond-crusted snapper with a fine red pepper sauce, braided tresse of grouper and salmon with orange citrus sauce, roasted veal chop and special creme brulee. Dinner: $$

Manuel's on the 28th
Bank of America building
390 N. Orange Ave., 407/246-6580
The name honors the father of super-restaurateur Manuel Garcia, responsible for the peerless Pebbles group and a few other winners and now this capstone creation with impeccable service and a menu that defines what much of Contemporary World cuisine is all about. Excellent wines. Dinner: $$$$

Pebbles
2516 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407/678-7001
17 W. Church St., Orlando, 407/839-0892
2110 W. S.R.434, Longwood, 407/774-7111
12551 S.R. 535, Lake Buena Vista, 407/827-1111
A marvelous mini-chain, a terrific-value-for-the-money clump of cafes with a wait staff of friendly professionals, a select, non-greedy wine list and a menu that redefines contemporary American cuisine. Lunch and dinner: $$

Sergio's Fine Italian Cuisine
355 N. Orange Ave., 407/428-6162
Sergio is none other than maitre d' Arunas Subatis and Caribbean chef Franklin Graham, partners in one of the best Italian grande ristorantes in the land. The one-pound lobster is surrounded with scallops and shrimp and finished with spicy Fra Diavoli, and the wine list is a wonder. Lunch and dinner: $$$

ORMOND BEACH
La Crepe en Haut
142 E. Granada Blvd., 904/673-1999
There's far more than Breton pancakes in this gem, and at night the pancakes are strictly for dessert, served after entrees of filet mignon, shrimp and scallops or the signature fritata crab cake. Lunch and dinner: $$

SATELLITE BEACH
The Dove Restaurant
1790 Highway A1A, 321/777-5817
This bird is really an eagle, flying high in the Italian sky, pointing the way to excellent pastabilities, very good shrimp creations and a zuppa de pesce assemblage of seafood that's sensational. Very friendly service and good wines. Lunch and dinner: $$

TITUSVILLE
Dixie Crossroads
1475 Garden St., 321/268-5000
The long lines usually stacked up here tell you that here's a terrific value for the money hideaway that's been serving superlative rock shrimp, stone crab and fried mullet in the most honest of settings since 1982. Lunch and dinner: $

WALT DISNEY WORLD
California Grill
Contemporary Resort, 407/824-1576
Penthouse panorama is as dramatic as what's being prepared in the display kitchen, where top Disney toques bring the west coast to the east using California produce, California culinary creations and California wines. Dinner: $$

Citricos
Grand Floridian Resort & Spa, 407/939-3463
Executive chef Roland Muller is on stage in a knockout display kitchen in a super-luxe setting designed by the same genius responsible for the California Grill and Flying Fish Cafe, and he modernizes the classics with salmon tournedos and veal shank sharing the spotlight with cassoulet and bouillabaisse. Dinner: $$$

Flying Fish Cafe
BoardWalk Resort, 407/939-3463
Freshness is the operative word in this strikingly designed and enthusiastically cheffed -- John State deserves the credit -- stunner with such temptations as Peeky Toe crab cakes with ancho chile remoulade, potato-encrusted red snapper, diver scallops with risotto and coconut curry. Dinner: $$$

Victoria & Albert's
Grand Floridian Resort & Spa, 407/939-3463
With superior everything, a changed-daily menu, chef's table for those who want to watch Mickey's master chefs in action, formal service to the nines and a great wine list, this is the most expensive Disney World restaurant on any campus. And worth every penny! Dinner: $$$$

WINTER PARK
Park Plaza Gardens
319 S. Park Ave., 407/645-2475
Neatly landscaped glassed-in courtyard with courteous service and a menu bristling with Dijon-zapped rack of lamb, Atlantic blue crab cakes with mustard sauce and cedar plank roasted salmon splashed with tomato caper relish. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $$$


SOUTHWEST

CLEARWATER/CLEARWATER BEACH
Alfano's
1702 Clearwater-Largo Road, 727/584-2125
Neighborhood favorite since the early '80s soars to the Italian-American heights with careful preparation of most classics, perfect pastas and a caring, knowledgeable staff in charge of a splendid, reasonably priced wine cellar and a fine selection of grappas. Lunch and dinner: $

Bob Heilman's Beachcomber
447 Mandalay Ave., 727/442-4144
The Heilmans must be doing something right -- like providing piano music and keeping the back-to-the-farm chicken dinner on the restaurant's menu, enlivening it with more modern culinary departures. Lunch and dinner: $

Tio Pepe Restaurant
2930 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., 727/799-3082
One of the great Spanish restaurants in Florida and still serving the classics in style, from white and black bean soups to bacon-wrapped shrimp and overloaded plates of paella, followed by flan and accompanied by sangria or Spanish wine. Lunch and dinner: $$

DUNEDIN
The Black Pearl of Dunedin
315 Main St., 727/734-3463
Owner Kathleen LaRoche is blessed with a talented pair of super chefs -- Karen Schluntz and Mark Hrycko -- who have winning ways with free-range duckling and crab cakes that are arguably the best in the state. Dinner: $$

Bon Appetit
150 Marina Plaza, 727/733-2151
Panorama views of the Gulf of Mexico are dramatic at any time of the day but great for sunset-watching, when you can dine in great style on continental offerings with a few nouvelle twists. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch: $$

Kelly's for Just About ... Anything
319 Main St., 727/736-5284
Chef-owner Virgil Kelly cut his culinary teeth at Sabal's next door, and he's having a lot of fun in this happily funky setting, serving good wines with his homemade everything -- from duck sausage to cornish game hen with maple pecan glaze. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $

FORT MYERS
Peter's La Cuisine
2224 Bay St., 941/332-2228
The most sophisticated setting in town with one of the most sophisticated menus in the southwest, one with nouvelle French accents added to contemporary interpretations. Lunch and dinner: $$

HOLMES BEACH
Beach Bistro
6600 Gulf Drive, 941/778-6444
With unerring skill and a multitude of talents, owner Sean Murphy has assembled a staff of great competence and a wine cellar of great distinction and depth, inspiring the kitchen crew to create consistently exciting interpretations of his "Atlantic Rim" culinary escapades, all worthy of another Golden Spoon award. Dinner: $$$

Bistro at Island's End
10101 Gulf Drive, 941/779-2444
Opened in October 1998 by the incomparable Sean Murphy to showcase his new culinary departures such as classic onion soup with vidalias in duckling stock, maple-grilled salmon and fresh grouper coated with toasted pecans and blood orange papaya jam. Dinner: $$

LAKE WALES
Chalet Suzanne Restaurant
3800 Chalet Suzanne Drive, 863/676-6011
For 71 years this has been one of Florida's true treasures in a fairy-land setting with a soup and sauce cannery, private air strip and unique menu featuring broiled grapefruit and chicken liver. In between filet mignon, lamb chops, baked chicken like no other in the land, great rolls and good wines. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $$$$

LONGBOAT KEY
The Colony Restaurant
Colony Beach & Tennis Resort, 1620 Gulf of Mexico Drive, 941/383-5558
Premier tennis center sparkling with yet another face-lift and fun changes with a Monkey Room replacing the Bistro, a Monkey Bar and outdoor Bongo Bar, state-of-the-art kitchen and a new-old director of food and beverage -- Tom Klauber has returned to the post he held from 1982 to 1992. He will wear two toques, remaining as chef-owner of nearby Pattigeorge's while overseeing the new menus he's developed and such happenings as the annual Colony Stone Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival. Lunch and dinner: $$

Euphemia Haye
5540 Gulf of Mexico Drive, 941/383-3633
Unique in every sense of the word, with owners Ray and D'Arcy Arpke always striving to perfect an already outstanding menu, while organizing cooking classes and doing TV to share the discoveries and delights. The second floor Haye Loft, with live entertainment, is perfect for lite bites and incredible desserts. Dinner: $$$

Harry's Continental Kitchens
525 St. Judes Drive, 941/383-0777
For two decades Harold and Lynn Christensen have been steadily growing their catering business, expanding into deli and take-out, then adding a restaurant, where the operative words are freshness and friendliness. Lunch and dinner: $$

Pattigeorge's
4120 Gulf of Mexico Drive, 941/383-5111
Chef-proprietor Tom Klauber flashes his credentials from the CIA, La Varenne and Aspen in a globe-girdling menu that magically merges the culinary creations of Asia and the continent, Caribbean and Floribbean, adding a few good old American comfort foods in the process. Excellent wine list. Dinner: $$

MARCO ISLAND
Marek's Collier House Restaurant
1121 Bald Eagle Drive, 941/642-9948
Chef-proprietor Peter Marek is preparing his classics in a most historic setting, the home of Capt. Bill Collier, whose memory he salutes with the likes of lobster thermidor, sauteed scallops, rack of lamb. Dinner: $$

NAPLES
Bistro 821
821 5th Ave., 941/261-5821
Owner Chip Shumway runs a class act with a young crew of enthusiastic chefs and servers who execute with precision and professionalism their mission of providing the locals with boredom-breaking food at all levels. Good wines. Lunch and dinner: $$

Chardonnay
2331 N. Tamiami Trail, 941/261-1744
A garden-embraced gazebo distinguished by the glories of Gallic cuisine supplied by the joint talents of owners Rene Nicolas and Jean-Claude Martin, who have a staff of compatible servers and a good wine list. Dinner: $$$

Ritz-Carlton
280 Vanderbilt Beach Road, 941/598-3300
A super-luxe star in Dining Room, Grill and Terrace with a fine wine cellar, a superlative level of service and the kind of kitchen expertise one has learned to expect when putting on the Ritz. The Sunday jazz brunch is special. Dinner: $$$$

Terra
1300 Third St. South, 941/262-5500
The terrific Tony Ridgway, Mary Brown and Sukie Honeycutt continue their winning ways with a Mediterranean approach to their grilling of quality seafood and meats, operating with great skill their adjacent deli-wine shop, Tony's Off Third, with sidewalk tables for lunching and munching. Lunch, dinner and brunch in season: $$$

PINELLAS GULF BEACHES
The Lobster Pot
17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores, 727/391-8592
Owner Fritz Reiter takes the pride of Maine waters to the ultimate, steaming, sauteeing, stuffing and saucing the red knights of the banquet table. Swordfish and snapper are also worth the trip, and so too is the Key lime pie. Dinner: $$$

Salt Rock Grill
19325 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, 727/593-7625
An immensely popular and striking waterfront oasis with well-schooled grill chefs committing chicken, steaks and, above all, fillets of fresh fish to the open pit flaming with citrus and oak logs. Dinner: $$

The Wine Cellar
17307 Gulf Blvd., North Redington, 727/393-3491
Despite the high-volume popularity and the extensive catering business, this is still a splendidly evocative setting with a series of Old Country rooms for outstanding European cuisine with good wines. Dinner: $$

SARASOTA
The Bijou Cafe
1287 First St., 941/366-8111
For 15 years Jean-Pierre and Shay Knaggs have presided over this transformed Texaco station pleasing a public that admires professionalism and craves such delights as pate de foie gras and perfectly chargrilled Australian lamb. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Cafe L'Europe
431 St. Armand's Circle, 941/388-4415
Pace-setter of the prestigious circle with a veteran staff, good wines, reliable seafood and such standbys as salmon perigourdine and good ol' liver and onions. For an informal, waterfront spinoff, check their Cafe on the Bay in Longboat Key at 2630 Harbourside Drive. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Fred's
Southside Village, 1917 S. Osprey Ave., 941/364-5811
Anchor restaurant of the gourmet gatherings at Southside with mod-mod American menu in a bistro setting, serving everything from jerked grouper to chicken pot pie, pizza to rack of lamb. Lunch and dinner: $$

Michael's on East
1212 East Ave., 941/366-0007
Michael Klauber still puts on the best show in town and certainly the best catering service and party venue with the main restaurant a splendid capturing of Manhattan supper club and Normandy era ships. Service is the best in the area, and the wines are superlative, but then he's got Michael's Wine Cellar in Midtown Plaza as source. Lunch and dinner: $$$

SIESTA KEY
Ophelia's on the Bay
9105 Midnight Pass Road, 941/349-2212
Owners Stan and Jane Ferro are responsible for this splendid little waterfront gem with a fine cellar and a kitchen that knows how to handle soft shell crabs, pork chops and pompano baked in the bag. Dinner: $$$

The Summerhouse
6101 Midnight Pass Road, 941/349-1100
Overachieving executive chef-owner Paul Mattison has red-hot irons in many fires, including the Sarasota Bread Company, TV shows and cooking classes, but he's always planning some special event that takes full advantage of this uniquely lovely setting. Dinner and Sunday brunch in season: $$$

ST. PETERSBURG/ST. PETE BEACH
Keystone Club
320 Fourth St. North, 727/822-6600
Downtown discovery proudest of their prime rib, but don't sell short the steaks, the fresh fillets of fish or fried calamari as kickoff to the feast. Dinner: $$

Maritana Grille
Don CeSar Beach Resort, 3400 Gulf Blvd., 727/360-1881
The 1928 Pink Palace is extremely well-served by this signature sensation with dramatic aquatic-inspired decor and a talented executive chef, Eric Neri, to host chef table performances in his kitchen. Fine wines. Dinner: $$$

Native Seafood & Trading Company
5901 Sun Blvd., 727/866-8772
Pedro Alvarez is the very definition of "hands-on" owner, designing and decorating his superb space with seafood market, spiffy service and his own "Scratch & Sniff" test with the seafood brought to the table before it proceeds to the kitchen. Dinner: $$

Renaissance Vinoy Resort
501 Fifth Ave., 727/894-1000
A magnificently restored and reborn landmark with top-rank Marchand's Bar & Grill, The Terrace Room and Alfresco doing so many things to perfection, including special menus and banquets. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $$$

TAMPA
Bern's Steak House
1208 S. Howard Ave., 813/251-2421
Bern has been sidelined since 1993, but son David carries on with class, aided immeasurably by the peerless Jeannie Pierola, who keeps it on the summit with incomparable beef, tanks of live fish, cornucopias of caviar, organic veggies and humongous desserts. And of course all that wine. Dinner: $$$

Columbia Restaurant
Seventh Avenue and 21st Street, 813/248-4961
Florida's oldest restaurant (1905) retains its youth thanks to the present generations of the founding Gonzmart family always looking for ways to improve -- and to expand with spinoffs across the state. Lunch and dinner: $$

Hyatt Regency Westshore
6200 Courtney Campbell Causeway, 813/281-9116
A resort hotel Golden Spoon winner for its double barrel champions of good eating, the formal Armani's high in the sky and Oystercatchers, with its own sense of class and dash down below. The first is open only for dinner; the seafood specialist for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $$$

Mise en Place
442 W. Kennedy Blvd., 813/254-5373
Chef-owners Marty and Maryann Blitz are the leading proponents of New Florida, New World, New Everything, receiving considerable recognition for the achievement, including dinners at the James Beard House and serving as this year's NFL chef. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Saddlebrook Resort
5700 Saddlebrook Way, Wesley Chapel, 813/973-1111
With a casual chic indoor-outdoor cafe featuring fresh fish, Dempsey's Steakhouse for prime beef, pan-seared Wisconsin veal chops and its own quintet of seafood selections, plus a pretty good poolside bar that serves a great hot dog, this is a class act for good eats -- and good wines, with a well-schooled serving staff. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch: $$

SideBern's
2208 Morrison Ave., 813/258-2233
All praise to executive chef extraordinaire Jeannie Pierola and her One World Cuisine, a serendipitous merging of Asian, European, Mediterranean and Latin flavors, climaxed by desserts that are architectural wonders and accompanied by the wines of the fabulous Bern's. Dinner: $$$


SOUTHEAST

BOCA RATON
Arturo's Ristorante
6750 N. Federal Highway, 561/997-7373
Vincent Gismondi of Arturo's clan is now in charge, with his wife at his side out front and his daughter in the kitchen, proving her northern Italian credentials, re-enforced by extensive experience in the Old Country and formal training this side of the Atlantic. Lunch in season and dinner: $$$

Boulevard Grille
Royal Palm Plaza, 561/391-7734
Contemporary American grill with serious steaks and prime rib, and all the talents of top flight chef Andrew Swersky, plus a most solicitous, knowledgeable staff in a bistro setting with patio seating in the right season. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Kathy's Gazebo Cafe
4199 N. Federal Highway, 561/395-6033
Kathy is gone, but the same competent continental staff keeps all flags flying with fine wines and made-from-scratch freshness, which can be observed up close at the counter. Lunch and dinner: $$$$

La Petite Maison
366 E. Palmetto Park Road, 561/750-7483
French charmer with spring-bright colors, caring service and skilled chefs capable of adding nouvelle niceties on the Gallic classics, providing good wines as well as value for the money. Lunch and dinner: $$

La Vieille Maison
770 E. Palmetto Park Road, 561/391-6701
The capstone of restaurant/wine guru Leonce Picot with a wonderful wine cellar, formal, experienced staff and a sensationally upscale setting providing a sophisticated stage for the Provence performances of chef de cuisine Richard Ruiz, a master of French Mediterranean cuisine. Dinner: $$$$

Mark's Mizner Park
344 Plaza Real, 561/395-0770
A happy modern merger of the world's cuisines assembled by master Mark Militello, one of the Mango Mafia -- pioneers in developing distinctive Floribbean fare. The setting is a comfortable one, and the staff is well-informed about the menu and all the daily specials. Lunch and dinner: $$

Max's Grille
404 Plaza Real, Mizner Park, 561/368-0080
Serious competition from Mark's and Gigi's a few feet away has forced the Grille to share the summit, but they still boast a good staff of servers, an inviting bar and a crew of chefs in the display kitchen defining daily what has made so many Max restaurants successful. Lunch and dinner: $$

New York Prime
2350 N.W. Executive Center Drive, 561/998-3881
In its downtown decor, its staff of polished pros, a well-stocked wine cellar and chefs who treat beef and king-size lobsters with great respect, this is prime all the way. Dinner: $$$$

Ristorante Sapori
301 Via de Palmas, Royal Palm Plaza, 561/367-9779
The name means "tastes," and there are plenty of those -- all good -- in this felicitously served retreat of chef-proprietor Marco Pindo and wife Mara. Always available are 15 varieties of fresh fish, pastas and sauces for a mix and match marvel. Lunch and dinner: $$

Trattoria Romana
499 E. Palmetto Park Road, 561/393-6715
Quintessential trattoria cheffed by Arturo Gismondi and watched over by father Giuseppe, both formerly of Arturo's in Boca. Pasta is perfect and so too the oversize mussels and soft-shell crabs -- there are none better this side of the Chesapeake. Lunch and dinner: $$

La Brochette
2635 N. Hiatus Road, 954/435-9090
Chef-proprietor Aboud Kobaitri is true to the name, specializing in everything grilled on the skewer, but his other creations are also memorable, especially his fresh fish of the night Mediterranean-style. Dinner: $$

CORAL GABLES
Caffee Abbracci
318 Aragon Ave., 305/441-0700
The incomparable Nino Pernetti is the force behind this champion -- from the personal greeting at the door to repeated table-hopping in very sophisticated rooms and the all-seeing supervision of a fine staff, now ably led out back by executive chef Jose Espinal. Lunch and dinner: $$

Christy's
3101 Ponce de Leon Blvd., 305/446-1400
A paragon of consistency serving properly prepared steaks embraced by great Caesar salads and baked Idahos. Some seafood, but if you want that, try their 5-year-old Red Fish Grill in Matheson Hammock Park
(305/668-8788). Lunch and dinner: $$

Giacosa
394 Giralda Ave., 305/445-5858
Chef Danielle Theme shows a sure mastery of seafood, including a Spanish-inspired salt-encrusted whole snapper baked in a brick oven. Good wines and a new Giacosa's Back Alley lounge with live weekend music. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Biltmore Hotel
1200 Anastasia Ave., 305/445-8066
La Palme d'Or is the best French restaurant in the state. And with its crew of French and French-trained chefs led by chef de cuisine Philippe Ruiz, and their special wine and food festivals, the hotel is in great shape to celebrate its 75th anniversary. Dinner: $$$$

Mozart Stube
325 Alcazar Ave., 305/446-1600
"Gott sei dank" for Harald Neuweg, who blesses us with this cozy Old World import, complete with steins of foamy beer and baskets of dark bread to complement platters of the best wurst and heroic shanks of pork and veal. Dinner: $$

Ortanique on the Mile
278 Miracle Mile, 305/446-7710
Executive chef and partner Cindy Hutson has created with great skill a cornucopia of Caribbean cuisine, blending with great conscience the jerk spices with the natural resources of the West Indies, conch,
crab, escovitched fish and "run down." Lunch and dinner: $$$

Norman's
21 Almeria Ave., 305/446-6767
He's here, he's there, he's everywhere, the trail-blazing guru of the south Florida breakout chefs who have devised cutting-edge creations, putting the area on the world's gastronomic grand tour and blessing us all with this temple of good taste. Dinner: $$$$

Restaurant St. Michel
162 Alcazar Ave., 305/444-l666
In a gloriously designed Art Deco Mediterranean setting, chef Fernando Ferreira pleases the palate with the likes of Lillet-laced lobster bisque, sesame-coated tuna, chipolte and honey-roasted free-range chicken. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $$

Ristorante La Bussola
264 Giralda Ave., 305/445-8783
Now in her 17th successful year, owner Elizabeth Giordano is the happy empress of a noteworthy "nuova cucina," specializing in modern accents and interpretations of the classics of the Italian kitchen. Lunch and dinner: $$

COCONUT GROVE
Baleen
Grove Isle Club & Resort, Grove Isle Drive, 305/858-8300
The respect accorded oysters is outstanding, but then so too is the way the back room handles the veal T-bones, lobster bisque, bouillabaisse and fresh fillets of fish. The setting is Florida at its indoor-outdoor island-conscious finest. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $$$$

Mayfair Grill
Mayfair House Hotel, 3000 Florida Ave., 305/441-0000
If you only have one night to do the Grove and experience a super-posh hotel setting in a smashing architectural novelty, make reservations on Friday for the bounteous seafood buffet. You won't be hungry for a week. Dinner: $$$

DAVIE
Armadillo Cafe
3400 S. University Drive, 954/791-5104
Omnipresent chef-owners Eve Montella and Kevin McCarthy in new digs that will also include the Baby Armadillo for a more casual continuation of the splendid southwest cuisine. Everything regional from the land of cacti and chilis but armadillo. Dinner: $$

DEERFIELD BEACH
Brooks Restaurant
500 S. Federal Highway, 954/427-9302
The Perron clan, with Bernard at the helm, has reinvigorated its Benvenuto in Boynton, but not at the expense of this flagship, with its fixed price great-value-for-the-money menus, carefully supervised service and a new wine cellar featuring no fewer than 80 select wines under $25. Dinner: $$

DELRAY BEACH
The Little Mermaid
115 N.E. 6th Ave., 561/276-6900
Chef-proprietors John and Gail Isaksen hold forth in this true-to-the-theme happy home of all good things Danish. The duckling and desserts are heavenly, and there's no better veal meat cakes to be found this side of Copenhagen. Dinner: $$

Splendid Blendeds Cafe
432 E. Atlantic Ave., 561/265-1035
Chef-owners Richard and Nellie Lemon continue to polish their little gem with appealing sidewalk sitting, the friendliest of servers and menus bright with rack of lamb, perfect pastas and grilled yellowfin tuna with fresh garlic and balsamic syrup. Lunch and dinner: $$

32 East
32 E. Atlantic Ave., 561/276-7868
Strategically located across from Old School Square, this two-story haven of heavenly food and high spirits remains in the charmed circle thanks to highly skilled management and magnificent cheffing by Nick Morfogen. In addition to their next-door 32 Degrees nightclub, they have 32 Eats and Restaurant out west. Dinner: $$$

FORT LAUDERDALE
Bistro Mezzaluna
741 S.E. 17th St. Causeway, 914/522-6620
Perfectionist George Mayo oversees an upbeat, high-energy happening with superior servings of anything that comes out of executive chef Michael Siegel's kitchen, from coriander-pepper encrusted seared tuna to one-pound veal chops. Dinner: $$

Bimini Boat Yard
1555 S.E. 17th St., 954/525-7400
Marina-front location with an immensely popular social shopping scene on the weekends and with overactive bars but also serious cheffing and serving of fine salads, burgers, seafood specialties and pizzas from an oak-burning oven. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: $$

Bongusto! Ristorante
5640 N. Federal Highway, 954/771-9635
Chef-proprietors Antonio and Anne Cerone have been doing their very special thing since 1988, expanding their space and steadily developing the decor to its present state of refined pinkness while continuing to make everything from scratch, Italian-style. Dinner: $$

Burt & Jacks
Berth 23, Port Everglades, 954/522-5225
The views, especially on moon-bright nights, are what sells this Burt Reynolds-backed waterfront mission, but the outdoor lounge seating is stimulating, the staff OK and the rack of lamb and steaks are easy to recommend. Dinner: $$$

Cafe de Paris
715 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/467-2900
I've been eating at this Las Olas landmark since 1971, and it's never been better, thanks to the diligence of Louis Flematti, who also is responsible for the nearby French Quarter. Great sense of Parisienne place and good wines. Lunch and dinner: $$

Cafe Martorano
3343 E. Oakland Park Blvd., 954/561-2554
Steve Martorano is the owner-chef of this storefront which has the magic formula for success -- and long lines. Buy fresh, make it from scratch, change the menu daily and keep it honest to South Philly Italian standards. No wonder he's doubled his space. Dinner: $$

California Cafe
Hyatt Regency Pier 66, 2301 S.E. 17th St., 954/728-3500
An independent operation on the shore of the Hyatt campus with a big money marina alongside and chefs who supply the indoor-outdoor tables with a California-inspired compilation of salads, seafoods and grilled meats. Lunch and dinner: $$

Casablanca Cafe
A1A and Alhambra Street, 954/764-3500
A model of adaptive restoration, a two-story reminder of the simpler past with patio panoramas of the beach and sidewalk people parade and with a marvelous menu skillfully executed by a highly competent kitchen. Lunch and dinner: $$

Casa D'Angelo
1201 N. Federal Highway, 954/564-1234
Angelo and Denise Elia are the dream team in charge of this happy little retreat with sidewalk sitting, display kitchen, wood-burning Tuscan oven, wine cellar and beautifully executed menu of refined Italian specialties. Dinner: $$

Eduardo de San Angel
2822 E. Commercial Blvd., 954/772-4731
Chef-founder and family head Eduardo is back, commanding the best gourmet Mexican restaurant in the state, executing his own time-tested recipes and techniques to perfection. Dinner: $$

15th Street Fisheries
1900 S.E. 15th St., 954/763-2777
Mike Hurst, professor at Florida International, former head of the National Restaurant Association and seminal force in the industry, is the main man here with fresh seafood, good wines, great breads and a lot of promotional imagination. Lunch and dinner: $$

Food Lovers American Cafe
1576 E. Oakland Park Blvd., 954/566-9606
Agnes Gallo, "the kitchen elf," is out back and husband Rene in the front of this straightforward echo of the French countryside, a delightful value-for-the-money discovery with good rib-eye, baked salmon on a bed of creamed spinach and best of salad presentations. Dinner: $

French Quarter
215 S.E. Eighth Ave., 954/463-8000
Green thumb owner Louis Flematti spun this romantic retreat off from nearby Cafe de Paris and installed a largely New Orleans menu with good creole creations, fine wines, eye-popping desserts and professional staff. Lunch and dinner: $$

Grill Room on Las Olas
Riverside Hotel, 620 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/467-0671
Gracing the ground floor of the landmark hotel with formal service, great wine cellar and a splendid menu with such specialties as buffalo and giant Maine lobsters. Start with a drink at the bar, with its Singapore setting. Dinner: $$$$

Himmarshee Bar & Grille
210 S.W. Second St., 954/524-1818
Mark Militello alums Tim Petrillo and Peter Boulukos are great believers in the hands-on approach to the business, building this gem themselves in 1997 and then personally overseeing its operation, as well as that in the nearby Tarpon Bend and River House, which they now also run -- in the best Militello manner of multiples. Lunch and dinner: $$

Il Tartufo
2400 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/767-9190
There's no better courtyard setting in the state, with twinkling little lights everywhere, outdoor bar and indoor formality with super-solicitous service, good wines and a center-stage wood-burning oven, where excellent fish and meats are carefully prepared. Dinner: $$$

La Coquille
1619 E. Sunrise Blvd., 954/467-3030
Jean Bert is the chef-proprietor of this attractively situated slice of something special in the provinces, one with good wines, good service, good food, especially the fillets of fresh fish and anything with veal. Dinner: $$

La Ferme
1601 E. Sunrise Blvd., 954/764-0987
Count your blessings! The Terriers are back, Marie-Paule out front and chef Henri in the kitchen producing a fine pre-theater menu along with a carefully considered combination of the classics with some nouvelle accents but nothing excessive. Dinner: $$

La Reserve
3115 N.E. 32nd Ave., 954/563-6644
A romantic waterfront setting with formal service, an excellent wine cellar and a kitchen that handles the French-American classics with skill and consistency. The Teboul brothers -- Guy and Richard, who have been on the scene since 1972 -- deserve a standing ovation. Dinner: $$$

The Left Bank
214 S.E. Sixth Ave., 954/462-5376
Super-energetic chef-owner Jean-Pierre Brehier is a Jacques of all trades with cookbooks, TV series and a widely circulated newsletter, plus this anchor operation where his carefully trained staff performs with professional aplomb. Dinner: $$$

Mai Kai
3599 N. Federal Highway, 954/563-3272
This best of all Polynesian supper clubs is in its 45th year, and it's as fresh as ever, from the famous Mystery Drink at the Molokai Bar to the exotic menu of Pacific Rim specialties, some of them from the Chinese wood-burning oven. And don't forget the fascinating show! Dinner: $$

Mark's Las Olas
1032 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954/463-1000
Chef-owner Mark Militello, founding member of the Mango Mafia, is seldom content to have just one outlet for his trailblazing talents, and those of his skilled lieutenants, and he's cloned again with a winner in Boca and a Top Newcomer in Miami Beach. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Primavera
830 E. Oakland Park Blvd., 954/564-6363
One of the finest grand ristorantes in the land with a highly skilled staff out front in charge of the eye-popping antipasti table and too-too tempting dessert cart and chef Giacomo Dresseno out back working his Italian magic with freshness from land and sea. They even have a harpist. Dinner: $$$

Rainbow Palace
2787 E. Oakland Park Blvd., 954/565-5652
The challenges of sensational setting and formal service are fully met by a kitchen capable of turning out the best Chinese food in Broward County. Well worth the price, and there's not a steam table in sight. Lunch Thursday-Friday and dinner: $$$

Rino's Cafe
2980 N. Federal Highway, 954/563-8444
Rino Balzano is back at his former digs, presiding over a Tuscan wood-burning oven with authority, brewing superior soups, cooking the pasta to perfection and compiling great desserts, all accompanied by carefully chosen wines and Rino's singing talents, live or on tape. Dinner: $$

River House
Himmarshee Village, 301 S.W. Third Ave., 954/525-7661
Sensational New River setting with grand porches, homey-historic dining rooms, great menu, good wines and a staff that is a model of professional concern and friendliness, just as one might suspect from the owners of the Himmarshee Bar & Grill. Brunch and dinner: $$

Sea Watch
6002 N. Ocean Blvd. (A1A), 954/781-2200
Oceanfront tribute to the sea and sailors with open-air porch, two floors of rambling rooms and spiffy staff of smiling servers delivering superb soups and salads, salmon plaillard, shrimp combos. Lunch and dinner: $$

HOLLYWOOD
Giorgio's Mediterranean Village
606 N. Ocean Drive, 954/929-7030
This $6-million spread on the waterway by George Bakatsias and Peter Tsialiamanis encompassing a terrific Taverna Opa, the spacious, bustling Giorgios Grill plus Bakery & Market is a real happening, the most exciting development to hit the city in many a mango season. Lunch and dinner: $$

JENSEN BEACH
Conchy Joe's Seafood
3945 Indian River Drive, 561/334-1130
Frederic Ayres is the owner-operator of this casual winner, serving plenty of shrimp in a variety of ways, all kinds of fin fare with Bahamian spices and inspiration. For more of the same, sail to Conchy Joe's in Melbourne at 1477 Pineapple Ave., 321/253-3131. Lunch and dinner: $$

Dolphin Bar & Shrimp House
1401 N.E. Indian River Drive, 561/781-5136
Conchy Joe a k a Fred Ayres revitalized this landmark that was built as Francis Langford's Outrigger and now houses a shrimp fiesta, innovative salad counter and a kitchen that handles such non-seafood stuff as beef Stroganoff, southern fried pork chops and Fred's Incredible Meatloaf. Lunch and dinner: $$

11 Maple Street
3224 N.E. Maple St., 561/334-7714
Progressive American cuisine is what owners Mike, Margie and Nita Perrin produce with grand style in a sentinel to the past filled with antiques and nifty nuggets of nostalgia. Dinner: $$

THE KEYS
Atlantic's Edge
Cheeca Lodge, Mile Marker 82, Islamorada, 305/664-4651
Seafood from near and far is handled with great skill and given Floribbean flourishes in this attractively positioned tropical treasure on the ocean side of the island necklace stretching to Key West. Sunday brunch and dinner: $$$

Cafe des Artistes
1007 Simonton St., Key West, 305/294-7100
The menu is as French as its name with cognac-flamed seafood and the kind of creole sauces and candied pecans you'd expect to find in New Orleans. Dinner: $$$

Cafe Marquesa
The Marquesa Hotel, 600 Fleming St., Key West, 305/292-1919
The most upscale eating experience in town with fine wines, formal service and lots of fresh seafood -- a specialty is the yellowtail snapper with a unique truffle butter and purple Peruvian potatoes. Dinner: $$$

Frank Keys Cafe
100211 Overseas Highway, Key Largo, 305/453-0310
Nestled into the trees away from highway roar, this little house is home of carefully prepared fresh fillets of locally caught fish plus a variety of fresh seafood. Dinner: $$

Little Palm Island
Mile Marker 28.5, Little Torch Key, 305/872-2551
A unique historic treasure reached only by boat and with a fine chef, Adam Votaw, in charge of a surprisingly ambitious menu complemented with fine wines and delivered by a professional, proud staff. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $$$$

Louie's Backyard
700 Waddell Ave., Key West, 305/294-1061
An early pacesetter of New Florida cuisine and still blazing trails in a handsomely maintained old house with a fine seagrape-surrounded outer deck, which is always tempting but especially during the sunset ritual. Lunch and dinner: $$

LAUDERDALE-BY-THE-SEA
Aruba Beach Cafe
One E. Commercial Blvd., 954/776-0001
Super chef Chris Nealon is the main man here, and he's in charge of a fine menu with sushi-style starters, great luncheon burgers, numerous salads and pastabilities, plus steaks and fillets of fresh fish. Lunch and dinner: $

Blue Moon Fish Company
4405 W. Tradewinds Ave., 954/267-9888
Special waterway setting with raw bar presided over by a pair of chefs who bring their island experiences to bear on the handling of fresh seafood. Pan-seared fish fillets are special, as are noontime salads. Lunch and dinner: $$

MIAMI/MIAMI BEACH
Baraboo
7300 Ocean Terrace, Miami Beach, 305/867-4242
Oddly enough, this Argentine-owned delight is named for the Wisconsin town famous for its circus museum and parades, and there is a certain circus-like decor as staffers perform table-side tricks while Brazilian chef Paulo Barroso de Barros works his own wonders with giant shrimp, sauteed sea bass and lamb chops bordelaise. Lunch and dinner: $$

Casa Juancho
2436 S.W. 8th St., Miami, 305/642-2452
Handsomely designed Spanish sensation with an upfront tapas bar filled with local movers and shakers there to meet and greet or to move on to dinners of excellent Florida lobster, paella or one of the signature fish dishes. Lunch and dinner: $$

Chef Allen's
19088 N.E. 29th Ave., North Miami Beach, 305/935-2900
Seminal force in south Florida's restaurant revolution of recent years, Allen Susser is a master of fusion fare, always working on the cutting edge but never falling off as he goes through his paces in one of the best display kitchens in the land. He has his own brand of sauces, and this past year branched out with the Aventura Paramount Grill, 305/466-1466. Dinner: $$$

China Grill
404 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305/534-2211
An immensely popular place. It is building its own empire with spinoffs and new departures in South Beach. Always exciting menu. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Crystal Cafe
726 41st St., Miami Beach, 305/673-8266
In the tiniest of kitchens, chef-proprietor Klime Kovaceski produces some of the most stunning dishes -- classics like osso buco and oven-roasted fillets of fresh fish blessed with lime juice and ginger. Dinner: $$

The Forge
432 Arthur Godfrey Road, Miami Beach, 305/538-8533
With museum collections of art, stained glass and a walk-in wine cellar, this is a must-see experience whether you waltz around the lounge or retreat to one of the cozy banquettes for grilled beef and chops. Dinner: $$$$

Il Tulipano
11052 Biscayne Blvd., North Miami, 305/893-4811
Ron Wayne is commander of this class operation with a stunning wine room backed by a fine list and a menu ably executed by chef Giovanni Moreno. Dinner: $$$

Joe's Stone Crab
11 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305/673-0365
Now in its 88th year, Joe's is bigger (475 seats) and more accessible, with a Take Away & Coffee Bar, and it's still the place to consume the claws. But don't forget the other seafood selections. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Nemo
100 Collins Ave. Miami Beach, 305/532-4550
A seven-room ramble indoors and out by partners Myles Chevetz and chef Michael Schwartz. Together they merge and meld Caribbean accents with pan-Asian, watched over by a top team of servers. Lunch and dinner: $$$

Oggi Cafe
1740 79th St. Causeway, North Bay Village, 305/866-1238
A simple storefront in a strip of no distinction except for that provided by the staff and a menu that is skillfully executed, be it farinaceous fare, something with fresh seafood or a veal chop. For more of the same near the airport, check out their new Oggi Cafe, 7921 N.W. Second St., 305/269-1022. Dinner: $

Osteria del Teatro
1443 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305/538-7850
Dino Pirola works the magic of producing a purse from a sow's ear, creating a little gem, one with a superior wine list and unbelievable desserts. Dinner: $$$$

Pacific Time
915 Lincoln Road South, Miami Beach, 305/534-5979
Chef-owner Jonathan Eisman pioneered the Pan-Asian phenomenon in south Florida, and he's still leading the pack with masterful and respectful handling of fresh Florida fish. Dinner: $$

Wish
The Hotel, 801 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305/674-9474
Chef Andrea Curto is constantly inventing. Her always-evolving menu packs such surprises as tuna tartare, filet mignon with manchego and pancetta, wild mushrooms with collards. Breakfast, lunch and dinner: $$

Yuca Restaurant
501 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305/532-9822
Cutting-edge Cuban food with the kind of imaginative ingredients and recipes never dreamed of in run-of-the-mill Cuban beaneries, but then it's intended for the Yucas, the Young Upscale Cuban Americans. Lunch and dinner: $$$

PALM BEACH
The Breakers
1 S. County Road, 561/655-6611
Break away for new and exciting dining that keeps this landmark ever young -- the ultra-upscale French L'Escalier and the Wine Cellar at the overwhelming Florentine Room and Echo, a Pan-Asian achievement of the first rank. And don't forget the stupendous Sunday brunch.
Lunch and dinner and Sunday brunch: $$$

Cafe L'Europe
331 S. County Road, 561/655-4020
An eye- and spirit-pleasing slice o

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