Lindburgers
1654 Federal Highway, Boca Raton 561/620-3882
This mini-chain was started in Delray Beach in 1982 by Don Myers to exploit with considerable class the achievements of aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, not to serve Swedish meatballs or the kind of simple sandwiches he scarcely touched on his historic solo flight across the Atlantic, but to feature "Gourmet Hamburgers." Seven clones landed in the county, but they were sold by Myers, who with his son Mark, has now started over with this newcomer featuring no fewer than 50 burgers, everything from a plane (like airplane) and a tartare to a spinach-stacked Popeye, from a Lindy's melt with cheddar and onions served on grilled rye bread to Alaskan with seafood salad, Polish with green peppers and onions, Hawaiian with pineapple, Palm Beacher with mushrooms and grilled peppers, and a Worth Avenue with caviar (what else?), sour cream and red onions, the most expensive at $6.75. All burgers are 7 ounces of fresh ground sirloin and are served with fries, but a dollar surcharge for absolutely outstanding sweet potato fries. There are also 17 hot and cold sandwiches, a dozen freshly made salads and a quartet of Lindoggers, $4.95 to $9.95. The father-son team is already planning its next moves -- links in Lantana, West Boca, Jupiter and Wellington. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday and dinner nightly.
Cheeburger Cheeburger
200 S. Federal Highway, Boca Raton 561/392-1969
This Florida winner, started in Sanibel in 1986, quickly realized it had an idea whose time had definitely come as it exploded across state and country, as far afield as Maryland, New York, Tennessee and Virginia. The Boca newcomer is its newest, its 15th in Florida, including links in Lauderhill and the streets of great eats in Fort Lauderdale and Delray Beach -- Las Olas Boulevard and Atlantic Avenue. Settings are simple and straightforward; staffs are eager to please, and they are inordinately proud of their product -- "America's Biggest Burger," they proclaim across the menu, which lists the big sellers: "Our Famous Pounder" for $9.95; a half-pounder, a "Serious Burger," for $6.25; and a third-of-a-pounder, "Semi-Serious," for $5.45; and one called "The Delirious," three-quarters of a pound priced at $7.95. Accompanying are $2.95 to $4.95 onion rings cooked in cholesterol-free peanut oil and French fries. The menu also lists eight salads, $2.25 to $8.95, and a non-stop choice of malts and shakes. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
La Villetta
4351 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton 561/362-8403
The Italians have not been standing still during the battles of Boca. At La Villetta, chef-owner Maria Mirra and host-owner Salvatore Sellitto doubled the size of their space, dressed it up considerably and added a stunning bar-lounge. Under the able tutelage of Sal, the staff performs to the highest standards, and Maria continues to cook up a storm in a corner kitchen discretely on view to patrons who are eager to learn about her made-from-scratch super sauces, her command of veal and the manner in which she wraps a fresh whole fish in salt before baking. Sal's tableside treatment of desalting and deboning is worthy of a brain surgeon. Dinner, with entrees $12 to $29, is served nightly.
Tony Bova's Trio
On a different level of achievement, Tony Bova continues to run circles around the competition in his trio of consistent performers:
Grinders Hot Grill
Dixie Highway and Glades Road, Boca Raton 561/620-0099
It's located not too far from where I first discovered Tony back in the early 1980s when he was carving and slicing a name for himself in a roadside shack (literally) making drop-dead subs and grinders and the best chili dog for miles around. Now he has the ultimate sandwich shop, with such zingers as shrimp Po-Boy, muffuletta ("The Real Deal") and whole wheat and roasted vegetable quesadillas. Alongside, order the "Already Famous Tower" of fresh cut Idaho fries, slaw or pinto beans or dig into one of the daily blue-plate specials, including a Monday meatloaf with mashed potatoes, peas and carrots and, of course, brown gravy. Wednesday spells Yankee pot roast, and Friday, corned beef. Prices are $10.95 to $11.95. The endless list of grinders ranges from $4.99 to $8.50, with an 18-inch Dagwood Snack pegged at $18 -- the menu warns "this is big time." Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Mario's of Boca
2200 Glades Road (Glades Plaza), Boca Raton 561/392-5595
A success from the moment it opened in 1985 with budget- and waist-stretching luncheon buffets, more serious sit-down stuff at night and long lines in season, Tony's anchor operation has recently been upgraded, and he's now featuring family-style dining with four- and five-course banquets priced at $18.95 and $21.95. I start mine with eggplant pancakes and a special gorgonzola salad and then settle into something fun and farinaceous like the gnocchi alla buttera before getting serious with the chicken Milanese or the sliced rib-eye Florentine steak with mashed potatoes and shitake mushroom sauce for a $5 surcharge. The regular menu is also available, and it's served noon and night daily.
Mario's Tuscan Grill
1450 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton 561/362-7407
Tony Bova's skills as a restaurateur were never better demonstrated than in this winner, serving Northern Italian fare with an always-appealing appetizer array at the entrance, the perfect prelude to what follows, whether you go to sea for shellfish and a variety of fresh fish or stay land-locked with one of the excellent veal selections or just put your head into the giant (all portions are large at a Tony Bova operation) bowl of rigatoni with braised ribs. Lunch is served Monday through Friday, and dinner, with entrees $9 to $19, is served daily.