To find another Winter Park newcomer worthy of Zak's advance billing was not easy. I tried the new and highly regarded Limon Cello at 702 Orange Ave. (407/539-0900) but was greatly underwhelmed by everything but the decor, the owner-made tables and the wonderful wine list -- but then there had been a recent chef shift.
Park Plaza Gardens
319 Park Ave. S., Winter Park
407/645-2475
I thought of checking out one of the quartet of Pebbles that restauranting whiz Manny Garcia ["Manny Happy Returns," February, FloridaTrend.com] had repurchased and was returning to their previous glory -- the first in Winter Park at 2516 Aloma Ave. (407/678-7001); the others in Orlando at 17 W. Church St. (407/839-0892); Altamonte Springs at 2110 W. State Road 434 (407/774-7111); or Lake Buena Vista, 12551 State Road 535 (407/827-1111). But I decided to stay on Winter Park's street of streets and see what magic Garcia, through his Garcia Stuart Hospitality Co., had been able to work on the venerable Park Plaza Gardens since taking over management last August.
With its attached, independent and unique Park Plaza Hotel alongside and overhead, Park Plaza Gardens has always been easy to recommend as a tranquil, civilized oasis, but over the years the service and kitchen roller-coasted a bit.
To work the basic changes from the top down, Justin Plank was brought over from a Top 20 Newcomer that definitely has not shuttered, Orlando's Hue -- yes, another Manny Garcia operation. Plank put to good use his five years' experience working his way up to executive chef with another phenomenon on the culinary scene, Wolfgang Puck, and he has come up with great menus noon and night. For lunch that means such starters as innovative onion soup merging Parmesan, provolone and Swiss cheese with a harvest of sweet onions, shallots and chives; a baby spinach leaf and endive salad enlivened with bleu cheese and sporting Granny Smith apples and caramelized pecans bound with a splendid honey hazelnut vinaigrette; a quesadilla with chicken, pepper jack cheese, golden tomato barbecue sauce, splashed with cilantro cream and bedded with a made-out-back pico de gallo; jumbo shrimp with crushed red pepper and fresh herbs; a splendid serving of smoked salmon with capers, chives and caviar dolloped with fresh dill cream; and, finally, jumbo lump crab cake with a fine roasted corn salsa and chili-spiked chive mayo ($6.25 to $14).
Among the four salads ($8 to $11), large enough for an entree and freshly assembled, I liked their version of the classic Cobb, with the rousing flavor of applewood-smoked bacon, perfectly ripe avocados, smoked ham and turkey, liberal chunks of bleu cheese, all highlighted by a fine basil buttermilk dressing. Next time around I'll try the curried chicken salad, featuring black currants, fresh melon and shaved coconut.
The 10 entrees range from $8 for a croissanwich with apple, brie, bacon and smoked turkey or fresh seasonal fruit in a raspberry coulis with sprigs of fresh mint, to $29 for a bleu-cheese-crusted beef tenderloin served with sauteed asparagus and garlic potatoes drizzled with ruby port demi. For $14 I had an absolutely superlative seared beef sandwich with melted brie, mayo spiked with rosemary and horseradish and memorable herbed fries.
Dinner specials include a five-course chef's choice for $49 or a five-course spread made to your specifications for $65 and 24 hours' notice. From the regular menu there are selections ranging from $19 for blackened Sterling salmon with succotash, garlic-scallion whipped potatoes and jalapeno-spiked cilantro pesto cream, to $29 for the pair of beef standouts, the bleu-cheese-crusted beef tenderloin and the Black Angus filet. Dinner specials are offered four days a week, and special orders can be requested 24 hours in advance.
Blackfin
460 N. Orlando Ave. (Winter Park Village)
407/691-4653
A short distance from the Park Avenue happenings, in the heart of restaurant-rich Winter Park Village, is another rebirth worth serious attention: Blackfin, first known as a sports bar. Where the TVs once were, there are now wine racks, and where there used to be sports-bar-style furnishings, there is now big-city sophistication, with wonderful soft muted earth tones serving as a formal backdrop for the crispest of white napery, candles and orchids and a high level of caring, informed, well-supervised service. Among the dinner highlights -- the Blackfin is not open for lunch -- were the back bayou seafood gumbo brewed with real soul and liberal portions of andouille and okra ($4) and the crab cakes ($14), which the pleasant waitress was proud to proclaim were famous.
The emphasis on fish -- fresh fish -- is obvious as soon as one enters and encounters a chalkboard listing the nightly offerings, including "Fort Pierce Cobia" and "Fort Pierce Wahoo," two of the best from our waters, guaranteed to convert even the most dedicated fish hater. I was sorely tempted but settled instead on Florida's answer to Dover sole, pompano. It was perfection.
There are a half-dozen seafood specialties, from $21 to $39 served with soup or salad, including surf and turf combos, blackened Sterling salmon, broiled sea scallops and Alaskan king crab. Nothing fried except the calamari, and that alone is sufficient reason to put the Blackfin on your must list for your next visit to Winter Park.
RESTAURANTS AROUND THE STATE
- Southeast
BOCA RATON
Gary Woo Asian Bistro
3400 N. Federal Hwy.
561/368-8803
Import from New York's Chinatown with great kitchen expertise and owner Gary Galimidi replicating Chinese comfort food New York-style. Dumplings are a delight, and the duck is just that -- ducky. Lunch, $6 to $8, and dinner, $15 to $20.
- Southwest / Tampa Bay
NAPLES
Campiello
1177 Third St. S.
941/435-1166
An instant transport to a special little find in your favorite Italian city, a complete escape as you twirl your pasta, marvel at the pizzas from the wood-burning oven, all the while sipping apertivos or one of the Italian wines. Lunch, $8 to $15, and dinner, $11 to $28.
- Central
ORLANDO
Lake Eola Yacht Club
407 E. Central Blvd.
407/841-0033
There are no yachts to see, just the grand old fountain and watery vistas of one of Orlando's many lakes, reflecting the downtown skyline while you mull over which seafood selection to have or which soup or wrap. Lunch, $7 to $12, and dinner, $8 to $24.
- Northeast
JACKSONVILLE
Stella's Piano Cafe
1521 Margaret St.
904/353-2900
Ed and Marti Bonneau magically transformed a two-story survivor from the roaring '20s, filling it with local art, live music and the talents of chef Robert Prine. Lunch, $6 to $8, and dinner, $10 to $30.
- Northwest
TALLAHASSEE
La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant
2329 Apalachee Pkwy.
850/656-3392
Best South of the Border food for miles and miles around, with predictable setting but very solicitous and knowledgeable service. Lunch, $6 to $8, and dinner, $10 to $13.