They have the cash and the courage to strike out in new directions. With Darden, it's Seasons 52, which opened in February on the lake at Plaza Venezia in south Orlando (7700 Sand Lake Road, 407/354-5212), and with Outback, it's Bonefish Grill, which started in St. Petersburg three years ago and now has a dozen act-alikes in Florida and eight others in North Carolina, Kentucky, Indiana, Ohio and Virginia. The newest opened in April in Tallahassee (Killearn Shopping Plaza, 3491 Thomasville Road, 850/297-0460).
Bonefish Grill
Bonefish specializes in grilling on oak the freshest fish in the market, from Atlantic salmon and swordfish to mahi mahi, Ahi tuna, Gulf grouper, Chilean sea bass, rainbow trout, shrimp, scallops and lobster tail, served as singleton or pairs at market prices. Other finny features range from $14 to $18.50.
Seven seafood starters range from $6 for calamari with marinara sauce or Thai-ed with sweet hot sauce to $9.50 for two jumbo lump crabcakes and succulent sea scallops wrapped with bacon and dolloped with a mango salsa chutney. There are also Prince Edward Island mussels sauteed with tomatoes in a lemon wine sauce and just the right amount of basil and garlic and saucier shrimp in a garlic-lime-tomato sauce with Kalamata olives and a sprinkle of feta.
Landlubbers can find solace on the grill with a choice of six entrees from $13 for an 11-ounce sirloin steak or fire-roasted chicken with mushrooms and prosciutto christened with marsala to $17.50 for an 8-ounce center-cut filet mignon.
Included in the cost of each Bonefish entree is a house or Caesar salad -- I prefer their version of the classic Cobb with jerk chicken -- and a choice of what they proudly call "Awesome Side Items": Angel hair marinara, island rice, potatoes prepared au gratin or mashed with garlic.
Seasons 52
The oenophile making the selections at Darden's new Seasons 52 is George Miliotes, currently a candidate for master sommelier designation. He is also the general manager of Seasons 52 and director of beverage and hospitality for Darden's new business division.
During a previous stint at Disney World's California Grill, Miliotes was paired with one of Disney's outstanding young chefs, Cliff Pleau, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and veteran of Ritz-Carlton kitchens and a key member of the group that opened Euro Disney in Paris.
Pleau and Miliotes made a marvelous team at the California Grill, and they make a marvelous team at Seasons 52 -- a name reflecting the fact that every week of the year various foods reach their seasonal peak. They are joined there by senior development chef Toni Robertson, who held several prestigious positions in Hawaii, South Africa and Singapore, where she became the first female executive chef of a four- or five-star hotel. Added to her passions for using the best of the best is that of developing recipes that are low in fat and calories.
The constantly changing menu serves up entrees, salads and large sandwiches ranging from 300 to 475 calories, including the grilled filet mignon sandwich with garlic-sauteed spinach and grilled wild mushrooms and big steak potatoes ($19.75) and grilled jumbo sea scallops with sauteed asparagus and toasted pearl pasta ($17.95). Appetizers like herb ricotta ravioli with julienne vegetables and roasted garlic broth ($6.75) range from 100 to 250 calories.
It's all targeted to the diner who no longer believes that a waist is a terrible thing to mind.
RESTAURANTS AROUND THE STATE
SOUTHEAST
Boca Raton
Tom's Place
7251 N. Federal Hwy. 561/997-0920
Boca-cuer Tom Wright adds to basic 'cue great pork chops, crunchy catfish, championship collard greens and impossible-to-resist corn muffins and perfect pecan and sweet potato pies. Lunch, $8.50 to $10.50.
SOUTHWEST/TAMPA BAY
Tampa
Byblos Cafe
2832 S. MacDill Ave. 813/805-7977
From "mezah" appetizers -- baba ghanoush, hummus and tabouleh -- to stuffed grape leaves and lamb kabobs, this is kept as authentic as the name -- an ancient city in Phoenicia -- by owners Ziad Estephan and Roger Stephan, who have a Mediterranean market alongside for the do-it-yourselfers. Lunch, $7 to $13. Dinner, $10 to $17.
CENTRAL
Winter Park
Le Coq au Vin
4800 S. Orange Ave. 407/851-6980
You'll be happily transported to the French provinces by Louis and Magdalena Perrotte -- he whisking out back and she working the front with great elan, serving the namesake chicken in wine, braised rabbit and rack of lamb. Lunch, $11 to $14. Dinner, $15 to $24.
NORTHEAST
Jacksonville
b.b.'s
1019 Hendricks Ave. 904/306-0100
Big-city setting with a menu for all tastes -- from designer pizzas to freshly assembled salads and fresh tuna. Lunch, $6 to $9. Dinner, $14 to $23.
NORTHWEST
Tallahassee
Kool Beanz Cafe
921 Thomasville Road 850/224-2466
The state capital entered the 21st century with a bistro bang, serving up the kind of mod-mod fare found elsewhere in Florida for lo these many years. Lunch, $8 to $12. Dinner, $12 to $17.