Palm Beach's overwhelmingly romantic Cafe L'Europe certainly does not rest on its laurels, not with the superlative chef-proprietor Norbert Goldner in charge and his wife, Lidia, overseeing the front room with sommelier and cellar master Rainer Schonherr in charge of some 2,500 selections.

Together they create special menus, a recent one boldly begun with Sevruga caviar blinis and a glass of Perrier-Jouet Cuvee Belle Epoque for $37. It climaxes with an outstanding selection of international cheeses for $15.85 paired with $40 worth of Warre's 1997 vintage port or Beaulieu Vineyard's 1998 Tapestry Reserve for about $20.

The soup selections call for a Riesling from Dr. Burklin-Wolf, St. Francis Chardonnay from Sonoma Valley, Concannon's Merlot from the California Central Coast or Penfold's Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia ($9.75 to $14.25).

The two entrees, handmade fettuccine with jumbo shrimp and broccoli rapini and pan-seared jumbo sea-scallops with golden potato cake and wilted spinach, demand a Bollini Pinot Grigio, Barbera from Piemonte ($9.75 to $11.50) and a pair from California, Chateau Montelena and Acacia's Pinot Noir, both at $16.50.

Of course, there are many to choose from -- the cafe has a total of 32 wines by the glass plus a quartet of champagnes.