9011 Collins Avenue
AWARD: Best New
Thomas Keller. The chef’s name says as much today as the Rat Pack’s did in the heyday of this Miami landmark. The king of the French Laundry and Per Se has stuck to time travel here with retro classics, oysters Rockefeller, caviar, lobster thermidor. All reinvented with the 21st-century trim today’s big spenders want: Beef Wellington gets prime short ribs and sauce perigourdine ($125 for two), lasagne has rapini, and fettuccine alfredo black truffles. Faddish modern sides include candied bacon and blistered cauliflower. Wines are deep in Burgundies and California trophies and can top $3,000.