179 2nd Avenue N.
AWARD: Golden Spoon
The protean genius of chefs Michael Mina and Don Pintabona uses rustic Italian to show off its love of Florida ingredients. The kitchen punches up smashed potatoes with Anna Maria bottarga and sears grouper in olive oil, spikes local greens with Calabrian chile, and dusts Tampa Bay clams with oregano and bread crumbs. Beef's dry-aged in house, and zeppole with prosciutto and fonduta is gooey fun.