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Medure's Magic


Matthew's at San Marco

2107 Hendricks Ave., Jacksonville
904/396-9922; thesanmarcogroup.com
Restaurant Medure
818 N. A1A, Ponte Vedra Beach
904/543-3797; thesanmarcogroup.com
Matthew's Market & Catering
2103 San Marco Blvd., Jacksonville
904/398-6676; thesanmarcogroup.com

The remarkable restaurant renaissance in the Jacksonville area started about 15 years ago when Matthew Medure arrived. The graduate of the Pennsylvania Institute for Culinary Arts had the good fortune to sign on with the crew opening the restaurants of the Ritz-Carlton/Amelia Island, concentrating on The Grill, which quickly became the best and brightest news in town, an early-on winner of a Golden Spoon. After putting on the Ritz for about seven years, Medure took a giant leap and opened Matthew's at San Marco -- followed by Restaurant Medure on Ponte Vedra Beach in 2001 and then, across the street from Matthew's, in response to popular demand, Matthew's Market, where his personalized products, such as glorious gravlax, are sold, breakfast and lunch are served, and catering arrangements are made.

Matthew's and Restaurant Medure are dinner only with distinctive menus and a fair share of fusion fare blending Asian with Mediterranean, Middle Eastern with good old Southern USA and some comfort food accents. That means such starters at Matthew's as duck breast prosciutto featuring Granny Smith apples and pomegranate molasses; snails with gnocchi, prosciutto and Parmesan emulsion; seared foie gras; and a beautiful bisque brewed from five different onions blessed with brandy essence and white truffle oil ($9 to $18), leading into such zingers as Creole-dusted mako shark with peppered gnocchi; seared Norwegian halibut with melted tomato and focaccia crust; salmon from Tasmania with candy cane beets and caramelized shallots; seared Bell & Evans chicken with sage-spiked foie gras stuffing; and roasted rack of lamb crusted with pecan-peppered mustard and served with truffled haricot vert ($20 to $34). Finishers include a selection of artisan cheeses, classic crème br?lée with marinated berries, and a warm liquid chocolate cake with peppered balsamic marinated strawberries ($8 to $14).

At Restaurant Medure, where Medure's brother David is executive chef, you can start with ultra-costly caviar or far more reasonable ($8 to $18) appetizers like sautéed escargot with garlic, spinach and Parmesan; Hawaiian tuna tartare with seaweed salad, miso broth and cucumber; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with Vidalia onion confit; or smoked salmon with crispy potato cake and American caviar as prelude to mustard-coated meatloaf with buttermilk onion rings and mushroom jus; sautéed red snapper with creamy cheese grits and truffle stewed onions; or a 14-ounce prime ribeye with fried spinach and blue cheese risotto ($17 to $36). For a finale, why not go all out and sample the cheesecakes or spoon into tiramisu bread pudding with mascarpone mousse or try a soufflé of the evening ($8 to $12).

Golden Spoon all the way!

Wine & Spirits

Red- Altos De Luzon 2003
Jumilla, Spain -- $16
A remarkable Monastrell (Mourvèdre) blend from the vineyards of Finca Luz?n, 60 miles from the Mediterranean, and a surprisingly great value for the money with welcome complexities of blueberries and black tea, boysenberries and chocolate.

White- Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Yellow Label Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Napa Valley -- $14
As straightforward as family and films with hints of honeydew and pear.

Vodka- Touch Handmade Vodka
Tampa -- $45
Florida has its very own vodka thanks to Nick Carbone, who started his own distillery in Tampa, an artisan effort with Florida Wildflower Honey gentling the spirits during microdistillation.

Tolf's Picks

TALLAHASSEE
Nino's Restaurant
6497 Apalachee Parkway 850/878-8141
Very good Italian standbys along with schnitzels, sauerbraten and sampler platters with wursts and kraut. Closed Sunday. Dinner entrees, $12 to $20.

ST. AUGUSTINE
Salt Water Cowboy's
299 Dondanville Road 904/471-2332
saltwatercowboys.com
Good ol' boy Cracker cuisine, from fried clams and oysters, gator tail tidbits and blackened snapper to broiled scallops, chicken and ribs. Dinner entrees, $10 to $24.

ST. PETE BEACH
Crazy Conch Cafe
1110 Pinellas Bayway S. 727/865-0633
crazyconch.com
Serving seafood and fresh salads with great respect as well as fantastic desserts. Closed Sunday and Monday. Dinner entrees, $15 to $37.

NAPLES
Campiello Ristorante
1177 Third St. S. 239/435-1166
campiello.damico.co
A complete escape as you twirl your pasta and marvel at the pizzas from the wood-burning oven. Lunch entrees, $11 to $17. Dinner entrees, $12 to $38.

MIAMI
Le Bouchon du Grove
3430 Main Highway 305/448-6060
Terrific sidewalk cafe for sipping cafe au lait or feasting on sea bass with asparagus. Lunch entrees, $14 to $24. Dinner entrees, $22 to $28.