6500 N. Florida Ave.
AWARD: Golden Spoon
At first, the name was as out there as the dream of Ferrell Alvarez and Ty Rodriguez to turn a run-down store into an extreme champion of purity and flavor. They can stuff pierogi with oxtail, pair fennel and gigantes, pork neck and scallops and soft-shell crab with red curry coconut. Market fish, cheese, beers and wine are painstakingly selected, rare and fair.