3620 N.E. 2nd Ave.
AWARD: Golden Spoon
The dean of artisanal Miami returns dining to simpler days of yore, with onion soup, steak tartare, carbonara, pan-roasted poultry as well as daily roasts and a 2-pound porterhouse for big tables. Dessert have a clever shine -- like espresso semifreddo, and brunch is a bargain for lobster frittata and short ribs benedict.