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Sweetbreads To Soul Food
Amelia's
Sun Center Plaza
235 S.E. Main St.
352/373-1919
Gainesville
Mulberry Street's loss is Gainesville's gain in a setting far more reminiscent of New Orleans than New York's Little Italy. Upgraded and expanded with bar and lounge, the area's premier Italian oasis appeals noon and night when I like to commence my feasting with clams steamed in garlic and olive oil, some escarole soup or cappelletti pasta in a rich broth, moving on to angel hair puttanesca, red snapper in lemon and light garlic sauce or one of the veal scallopines. Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday and dinner, with entrees $9.95-$18.95, Tuesday through Sunday.
Emiliano's Cafe and Bakery
7 S.E. First Ave.
Gainesville
352/375-7381
A sensational supplement to the sidewalk cafe scene of Union Street, the downtown Gainesville historic district, and area headquarters for Caribbean-converted tapas, amarillos, empanaditas and tostones, plus superior chunky gazpacho and old-family recipe Caldo Callego, substituting garbanzos for fava beans. The Cuban sandwiches compete with the best of Tampa's Ybor City, and no other restaurant is doing so many wonderful things with black beans. But don't overlook the Jamaican curry chicken, arroz con pollo and garlicked tuna steak. Coffees and pastries are also top of the mark. Lunch is served daily except Sunday; dinner is Tuesday through Saturday, with entrees $6.95-$20.95.
Harry's Seafood Bar and Grille
110 S.E. First Ave. Gainesville 352/372-1555
24 S.E. First Ave. Ocala 352/840-0900
Harry's just wild about opera, or at least reborn opera houses of the l880s where he's installed his spiffy crews and Cajun/Creole-inspired chefs churning out back-bayou classics. I let the good times roll with seafood gumbo and then stretch my mouth on an oyster, shrimp or turkey po' boy, something blackened or Southern-fried, making sure I order the sensational smashed potatoes as a side ? baby reds with onions and secret spices. Lunch and dinner, with entrees $4.95-$13.95, are served daily.
Miss Pearl
223 S.W. Broadway
Ocala
No Phone
Miss Pearl is still cooking up a storm, as she's been doing for 22 years, at her simple little storefront, stacking the pots and pans filled with the likes of beef stew, fried chicken, Salisbury steaks, finger-lickin' good ribs and mountainous sides of black-eyed peas, chunky yams and collard greens ? soul food at its most satisfying, served Monday through Friday from 11:30 to 5:30, with nothing on the non-menu over $6.
Panache
113 N. Main St.
Gainesville
352/372-8446
Bunky Mastin and Wade Tyler have been running this integral indoor-outdoor part of The Wine & Cheese Gallery since 1973, overseeing an inventory of some 4000 wines plus 160 beers of the world and many classic cheeses and other deli items. What an appetite builder it is to be immersed in such Good Life pursuits while working through one of the super salads and sandwiches, or such daily specials as Thai-inspired chicken with red curry and coconut milk or shrimp saluted with a fine pesto. Lunch, with entrees $4.95-$6.50, is served Monday through Saturday.
The Sovereign
12 S.E. Second Ave.
Gainesville
352/378-6307
In December chef-proprietor Elmo Moser and his multitalented, front room manager wife, Lupe, will celebrate their 20th year of fulfilling his pledge: "I promise you the best food in Gainesville." They recently expanded the pledge to include "the best wedding, banquet or rehearsal dinner in town." Elmo played a seminal role in introducing local palates to the pleasures of the continental kitchen with the likes of sweetbreads, veal chops, baked Alaska and, most recently, ostrich. I learned to my delight a few weeks ago that he can also brew an outstanding oyster stew, which is a superb starter in the Mosers' high-ceiling, brick retreat, perfectly lighted and professionally served. Dinner, with entrees $16.50-$27, is served every night but Sunday, and there's a jazz pianist Friday and Saturday.
The Sow's Ear Cafe
20 S.W. Broadway
Ocala
352/402-0733
This pleasant surprise was opened last February by Luanne and Jerry Shuttleroe, who realized the best of two dreams by combining a gift and book store, including food-related titles, with a cafe/deli complete with specialty temptations and diet-smashing sweeties. The sandwiches are super and I especially like the freshly assembled salads, tabbouleh, quiche, lasagna and such nightly specials as shrimp Mornay and tenderloin of pork. Lunch, with entrees $3.49-$7.49, is served daily except Sunday; Dinner is Tuesday through Saturday, with live music on the weekend.
Steve's Cafe Americain
12 W. University Ave.
Gainesville
352/377-9337
Chef-owner Steve Williams, alum of the University of Florida as well as Hyde Park's Culinary Institute of America, holds forth in this sophisticated storefront where an exhibition kitchen serves as center stage for production of his "from scratch" specialties, including cutting-edge creations featuring the chilis and spices of the Southwest, and gamier fare such as pheasant, ostrich and venison. Dinner, with entree prices $12-$24, is served nightly.
